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Former Harley tech here, my 03 95" FLHTI **** the lower end (left crank bearing) at 65k miles, my brothers 04 95" made it to 68k miles...same issue. wife's 06 with sidecar made it to 88k miles. I elected to convert them to the old opposed Timkin bearings and trued/welded flywheels. My bike has S&S gear drive, other bikes are hyd. tensioners. Over 250,000 trouble free miles before I totaled a new Ram truck with my bike (I'm ok haha)
If your bike runs well, compression good, no big leaks etc... I'd run it till she needs attention. As others mentioned, when the need arises, pull the motor yourself, strip it and send lower end out to a reputable shop. Wish ya a successful journey....
Former Harley tech here, my 03 95" FLHTI **** the lower end (left crank bearing) at 65k miles, my brothers 04 95" made it to 68k miles...same issue. wife's 06 with sidecar made it to 88k miles. I elected to convert them to the old opposed Timkin bearings and trued/welded flywheels. My bike has S&S gear drive, other bikes are hyd. tensioners. Over 250,000 trouble free miles before I totaled a new Ram truck with my bike (I'm ok haha)
If your bike runs well, compression good, no big leaks etc... I'd run it till she needs attention. As others mentioned, when the need arises, pull the motor yourself, strip it and send lower end out to a reputable shop. Wish ya a successful journey....
Geoff, now we are talking, someone with some direct experience as to when the problems occur, which is what I need. I am going to check compression on the bike this winter, but I can feel the bike is weaker, so I suspect its down. My bike also has S&S gear drive, I converted it back in 05. Your suggestion is to run it till it need attention, but if something goes on the lower end, does it not take out parts pretty quickly? I am thinking I would like to get it done before it gives up and wipes out expensive parts.
My personal opinion is this: If the leakdown comes out okay and you're not using oil and not interested in a big inch build..... I'd leave it and wait for the day it starts using oil and save an extra $100/month for a rebuild when the time comes.
Otherwise, doing the top end without peeking at the bottom end with that many miles is just asking for trouble.
So do it right or leave it alone. Neither answer is right and neither is wrong. Just don't get caught with your pants down financially.
Geoff, now we are talking, someone with some direct experience as to when the problems occur, which is what I need. I am going to check compression on the bike this winter, but I can feel the bike is weaker, so I suspect its down. My bike also has S&S gear drive, I converted it back in 05. Your suggestion is to run it till it need attention, but if something goes on the lower end, does it not take out parts pretty quickly? I am thinking I would like to get it done before it gives up and wipes out expensive parts.
You're not wrong in this assumption, but if you're trying to save money by just doing the top end, you're going to lose in the long run most likely with a bike with so many miles. If you do a top and bottom end, you're probably going to be fairly close cost-wise if the motor grenades.
I think the bigger questions is this: what are you comfortable spending on a motor rebuild? That will likely dictate your next step.
Flyboy,
I have an '04 EG Classic with 119,000 miles on it. About 15,000 miles ago I had Hillside do a valve job on the bike (they did an excellent job). The reason I had to do a valve job was a cracked valve guide caused by a bad spark plug (long story). Like you, I've wondered how long the bike will go. I've always used synthetic oil in it and have maintained it well. It runs great, uses absolutely no oil and gets 45 MPG. I'm just driving it until that day arrives. It has never let me down. I put about 5-6,000 miles a year on it. Good luck.
A lot of good information has been shared by the previous contributors of this thread... But... No one has mentioned where you described your riding style - "I ride the back roads of Pennsylvania at the speed limit.....never on a freeway."
I would also consider that in making my decision.
If you truly ride as described then the bottom end has most likely experienced relatively low stress levels throughout its life, assuming you're not lugging it around at very low rpm's.
I'd also consider that it has gone as long as it has without issue. That tells me that your particular engine was probably well within the factory tolerances to begin with (which equates to higher reliability and a longer life). Another poster stated that three bikes he knew of had lower end bearing issues in the 60k mileage range. I'd suspect that those bikes were either ridden very hard or were close to the limits of the factory tolerances when new.
A lot of good information has been shared by the previous contributors of this thread... But... No one has mentioned where you described your riding style - "I ride the back roads of Pennsylvania at the speed limit.....never on a freeway."
I would also consider that in making my decision.
If you truly ride as described then the bottom end has most likely experienced relatively low stress levels throughout its life, assuming you're not lugging it around at very low rpm's.
I'd also consider that it has gone as long as it has without issue. That tells me that your particular engine was probably well within the factory tolerances to begin with (which equates to higher reliability and a longer life). Another poster stated that three bikes he knew of had lower end bearing issues in the 60k mileage range. I'd suspect that those bikes were either ridden very hard or were close to the limits of the factory tolerances when new.
You make a good point, and my reasonable treatment of my machines has always benefited me. When you hammer on stuff.....it breaks. I don't. Knowing this is one reason I raised the question and made the point of treating it well. Maybe I can pull the top end, and see how the rods feel with it removed. Its a much easier deal to just do the top end. What I don't want is any surprise failures that could wipe out expensive stuff on the bottom end. The other question is,. if I don't work the bottom end now......at what mileage would I need to? I realize nobody has the answer for sure, but will a TC88 bottom end go 150,000 miles, 175,000, etc?
Just ran across this thread. Posted a thread yesterday in general discussions with very similar questions. My 05 RD King has 175000 miles, is all original and with no engine work to this point. Will be following this thread to pickup some valuable insights.
Just ran across this thread. Posted a thread yesterday in general discussions with very similar questions. My 05 RD King has 175000 miles, is all original and with no engine work to this point. Will be following this thread to pickup some valuable insights.
Very interesting. I have used HD Screamin Eagle Synthetic oil after the first oil change, and routinely change it at 5000-7000 miles. My thread was started because end of this summer, I felt the bike was getting weaker, but maybe it is not. Could have been a bad tank of gas. So, what I need to do is a compression check, and see how the cylinders are doing. It burns almost no oil across the 5000 mile changes, so I suspect the rings are good. I also have found in reciprocating engines that you need to use some fuel cleaner occasionally, and I have used Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel of multiple kinds of engines......and after its use, the machines perform better for awhile. I suspect carbon builds on the valves, and needs cleansed once in awhile. I have been told Marvel is just simply high detergent lightweight oil. So, maybe its time for another dose. With HD 05 at 175,000 miles with no engine work......it gives me hope I have a long way to go. Might be different for those of you that abuse and thrash your bikes, but for me, I take it easy on them. I let it warm up a bit before revving, and frankly......ride it easy.
My 04 has in excess of 200k miles. It's gone from an 88 to a 95 to a 107.
If you're going to do crank work, upgrade the crank to a 103 crank. You get the same upkeep, the same cylinder but with a trued balanced and welded crank in a 103 variety. You get more options.
You can stay 103, go 106 or 107, or even consider 110 or you could even go larger.
However with an 88 crank, you get 95, 98 and that's about it.
Spend the $$ once but do it right.create as many options as you can even if you don't use them.
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