When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 2004 Road King with 124,800 miles on it......all by me. I feel like the engine may be getting weaker, and time for rebuild. Its not burning an ounce of oil between oil changes, and I will do a compression check to see how it is sealing. But, if the time has come, my question is whether or not I should touch the bottom end. I have used Screamin Eagle Synthetic in the engine, and HD recommended oil in primary and trans since after original break in, every 5000-6000 miles. My plan for top end is upgrade to 95 or 96 inch, from my current 88, using either SE or S&S parts. But as for the bottom end, my research shows that there are several vendors who do a decent job at the bottom end work including welding the crank to prevent shift, etc, and looking for recommendations. I could go another summer, and might, but eventually I want to do it before any catastrophic occurs. Thanks in advance.
Why not use HD's long block program? You get a whole new motor, built by HD, for one price and you're good for another 124K. Check with your dealer; it doesn't cost to ask a question. I'm not sure if it's possible to upgrade with the program (go from 88 to 96), but that is another free question. Good luck with your decision.
Flyboy- IMO you should go through the whole engine if you don't go the replacement short block from HD.
I would recommend Hillside Machine in Munnsville, NY. Scott has an international reputation as an engine builder. My '16 FLHTK is in their hands now for an upgrade to a 110" for touring purposes, NOT racing.
It would be a day's ride up. There's good BBQ in Hamilton & Syracuse, NY if you overnight.
By the way, central and western PA are my favorite places to ride since I got my HD. The 44 & 144 in particular.
I have a 2004 Road King with 124,800 miles on it......all by me. I feel like the engine may be getting weaker, and time for rebuild. Its not burning an ounce of oil between oil changes, and I will do a compression check to see how it is sealing. But, if the time has come, my question is whether or not I should touch the bottom end. I have used Screamin Eagle Synthetic in the engine, and HD recommended oil in primary and trans since after original break in, every 5000-6000 miles. My plan for top end is upgrade to 95 or 96 inch, from my current 88, using either SE or S&S parts. But as for the bottom end, my research shows that there are several vendors who do a decent job at the bottom end work including welding the crank to prevent shift, etc, and looking for recommendations. I could go another summer, and might, but eventually I want to do it before any catastrophic occurs. Thanks in advance.
Its your Money, but if it was mine I would go through the whole thing and do a 98inch build.
Hillside did my EVO last summer. Did a great job on my bike and had to do the low end since one of the pistons broke. I'd give Scott a call and talk to him.
For what a rebuild is going to cost you with machine work and truing/welding the crank, slap a S&S engine in it and call it a day
When I finally needed a rebuild on my '02 95" with 130,000 on the clock, I ran into the same dilemma. If you only do the top end, you run a real risk of overstressing a lower with a lot of miles on it and the results can be expensive. I made the decision to go with an S&S crate motor after going through all the cost equations. Since I'm a long distance rider, I went with the 111" (with all the added mods it's a 130h/131t result) option and have been very happy with the results. If you're not a tourer, the S&S 124" is only a little more expensive and you can get the low compression version if you do a lot of highway miles.
However, if I had it to do over again, I might go with Frank at Drago's Bike Works 98" build of my old motor. To take full advantage of the new S&S, I needed a TB and injector change as well as a clutch upgrade and the needed dyno tune (your stock EFI map will NOT work even with a displacement change). I took the opportunity to put all new stuff in the primary at the same time.
It all depends on how long you plan on keeping the bike. If you just want to get a rebuild and get rid of it in a year or 2, the top end MIGHT get you by (depends on how much you ride).
Last edited by 99Birdman; Nov 25, 2019 at 07:53 PM.
Thanks for the input. I am not selling the Road King, and not really interested in any big inch replacement motors. I am down to putting 5000 miles a year on the bike now, and I ride the back roads of Pennsylvania at the speed limit.....never on a freeway. I treat my machines with great respect, and do not abuse them. As for HD long block program, or the S&S motors, they are too expensive. I do much of my own engine work, and all I really need is somebody to rebuild the bottom end, mostly because I don't want to buy tools necessary nor do I have experience on it. I can easily assemble the top end back on the motor. So, I will have my cylinders bored and honed to 95 inch, and whatever is recommended on the valves. No need to do any "improvements" on what has served me well for 128,000 plus miles. I am going with 95 over 88, because it gives me a bit more torque, and really is not a big expense. I have no use for any more power than that.
My main question was about this "welding" thing I see going on in my model year, related to some problem of the crank scissoring.....which I assume has not happened on my bike. I also assume this applies to guys who abuse their motors, which is not me. Most likely, this is a solution looking for a problem, and a way for shops to scare owners into spending money.
I will call Hillside and see what they have to say. It needs to be reasonable on cost, and not interested in getting talked into things I do not need.
There has also been at least one Evolution engine that went 250,000 miles without overhaul, so I am not even sure I need to do anything.
Last edited by Shovels & Vettes; Nov 26, 2019 at 04:46 AM.
By all means simply continue riding it as it is, however if you decide to do any rebuild, even to stock tune, do start with the crankshaft. I had a friend some years ago who did a top-end overhaul in good time before a long holiday touring trip. Blew his old crank before he got to his first destination, because he couldn't resist using the extra performance he was getting! Ruined his trip....
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.