Bawahaha.

 

Hey pal, first time actually participating in any forum so let me apologize in advance for any and all mistakes that I’m fixing to make. My reason for replying is simply because I’m having the exact same problem turning the rear wheel by hand. I’m not complaining because I’m at 81K miles and this is my first major problem but my front cam “rear bearing” basically disintegrated so I’ve now replaced both rear cam bearings, inner and outer cam chain tensioner, oil pump, and both of the rocker box filters for the crank case breathers. I did have two lifters that wasn’t stuck but definitely had quite a bit of drag to them but after disassembling, cleaning and reassembling them there hasn’t been any more issues with the lifters. So considering the mileage and luckily dodging the potential disaster that I could have had - Ive now developed some sorta displaced feeling of loyalty towards repairing my ole motor rather than going ahead and just completely rebuilding right now. Sorry I’m rambling off course a little - anyhow all has been fairly smooth with replacing everything mentioned, reassembly went fairly smoothly that is until I’ve think I’ve removed and reinstalled the pushrods four or five times now. After disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the lifters - I had submerged them in oil one at a time taking one of the pushrods and working them by hand as much as I could - though I shoulda known I’d have to allow for the fact that they would bleed down much easier than were they built up by engine oil pressure but never the less this is where I’m currently at with my repairs - so other than showing signs of withdrawal from not being able to ride for going on three months now - the bike itself is completely reassembled - with it on the stand rear wheel off the ground - plugs out and in fifth gear it’s still very difficult to turn the rear wheel by hand (that’s issue #1) - issue #2 is that straight up honest about it - I have gone ahead and fired it up a couple different times now “still on the stand only of course” and she’ll fire up as easily or easier than she has in a while now, she’ll even sit there and count-em off at an idle almost as if I knew what I was doing - however after a few minutes running and twisting the throttle a little bit - it seems like the rear pipe begins getting a bit hotter than the front pipe and that’s when it’ll begin to idle slightly less smoothly as well as a noticeable change in sound and that also is when I’ll go ahead and shut her down - and the second that the engine stops she’ll immediately puke about a half quart of oil back out of the carburetor back plate ! IM ALL EARS and any advice is appreciated. QUOTE=hepkat63;18880065]thanks all... so, I've done the procedure, as I outlined up above - turning wheel by hand each time. Did two pushrods on back cylinder whilst on TDC, then let bleed down, then did front cylinder the same way - at TDC. I think that (obviously) it was the first time I've done this with adjustable pushrods, my issues where:
1. Wasn't expecting that rear wheel would be as hard to push as it was.
2. That when the cylinder you're working on is at TDC and you take the lash out of the adjustable pushrod by hand, i was actually screwing it by hand down too far. After the adjustable pushrod had made contact with the lifter and rocker so that there was no up/down movement, I kept adjusting by hand until I could not spin the adjustable pushrod by hand - THEN i adjusted it down the four turns and awaited for it to bleed down. Of course, it did not and hence why I questioned by method.
3. Once I realized my mistake (at 2. above) - it seemed to have worked fine as after the adjustment, there was just enough give to spin the adjustable pushrods by hand (the lifters were brand new and they'd bled down due to the previous incorrect adjustment)..
thanks again for all your help guys - sorry to take up your time with my error.[/QUOTE]

 

Wow, what a 1st post


a couple things and nothing to do with what you said ... which is the problem

Your post is hard to read (and most won't). It needs to be broken up.

You've got the OP's Post mixed in with yours at the end, but it just looks like it's more of the same of yours. I didn't read it. I just noticed that because your post ended with a closing "[/Quote]", but without the visual of a Quote because you had left off the opening Quote


Welcome to the Forum

 

Check oring oil pump to scavenge port I had that happen once in a rush installed the wrong oring.

 

Its all that compression...

 

OK, as mentioned, your post is very hard to read... I'm not sure I followed, or understand, most of it.... I believe I was able to understand a couple things I can comment on....

1) You say an inner cam bearing "disintegrated"...?? You need to account for any and all debris. If you don't, and miss some, the pieces could destroy all your new work. Many I know won't stop at anything short of splitting the cases, to clean out any/all debris after an inner cam bearing failure. Most will replace the oil pan, because the baffles make it almost impossible to flush it out properly to ensure debris is gone. I hope you spent a considerable amount of time cleaning out and accounting for all the pieces of that "disintegrated" bearing...

2) The wheel will not spin easily, but that is very subjective, you may not have a problem here...

3) The engine starts easily, then gets hot and runs poorly. When shut down oil pukes out the intake manifold...? It could be, as someone mentioned, you have a problem with your main oil pump o-ring and you are sumping badly into the cases... You should check that o-ring. Another possibility is you did not install one of the new breathers correctly. I's building crankcase pressure without proper venting. You wouldn't be the first to put an umbrella valve of the breather assembly in backwards/upside down to where it actually blocks the crankcase venting...

Bottom line.... it sounds like you need to disassemble the bike and check your work... I suggest you get a Harley Factory Service Manual for your bike and follow it closely...

You could also google some videos on things like adjusting the pushrods, etc.. I hope you didn't tweak something when you messed up your initial pushrod adjustment... but I'm not sure I understand how that all went down.....

If you run into any other problems/questions, I suggest starting your own thread, and listing your problems using some punctuation and paragraphs... Making the effort to use just a little basic grammar, will make it much easier for us trying to understand what you are saying about your issue(s)...

Good luck with your fix...

 

Hi, listen i sincerely do appreicate your response and i do appoligize for any difficulty in understanding. As i mentioned that actually was my very first forum attempt for information. And though i completely agree with you. First i should have opened my own new posting and actually didnt realize i had just added to someone else's. Secondly my grammer has always been for **** so not much i can do with that. Good news however is that as poorly as my attempt for information may have been - your response turned out to be spot on ! "Oil Sumping" and oil pump o-ring issue was exactly my problem so again i thank you. We corrected the o-ring issue as well as learned a little better understanding of the tc88 oil system and getting the proper amount of oil needed in lieu of over filling due to improper installation of my oil pump. So lesson learned luckily without any additional damage.

Once oil sumping issue was resolved, she'd throttle right up as she should. We did make a couple "Successful" attempts at flushing the engine for any bearing debris. Of coures i cant say for 100 percent sure that i retreived all of it because i didnt split the cases and everything. But im fairly confident it want be an issue and i intend to do another oil and filter change after a hundred or so miles. Like i had first mentioned, the ole bike has quite a few miles anyhow so i also plan to start gradually buying a piece here and there in preperation for a complete rebuild somewhere in the hopefully not so near future.

Thanks again