RoadKing clutch cable afjustment
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Oklahoma
All you talk about are the new bars, so when did you do the last BY THE BOOK full clutch adjustment? That information AND the new grips might have been handy to improve the "guesses" for best fix. If those fat grips won't allow the full clutch release AND the minimum lever free play, then lose the grips or start looking at after market levers.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: Tiffin,Oh
I already got aftermarket levers too. They were installed same time as bars and levers. Will the "total complete" clutch adjustment facilitate these minimal increased diameter grips? Also, do most of you guys (inside the derby cover) back the adjuster off half a turn (standard) OR 3/4 turn out (recommended for slow maneuver friction zone)?
p.s. if I hafta change these new grips back out, I'm willing to do that, as much as I hate to. These Avon memory grips, if I remember, come in 3 sizes and seem to be fairly popular. Are there many reports or threads about these, or grips in general being a clutch adjustment problem?
p.s. if I hafta change these new grips back out, I'm willing to do that, as much as I hate to. These Avon memory grips, if I remember, come in 3 sizes and seem to be fairly popular. Are there many reports or threads about these, or grips in general being a clutch adjustment problem?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
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Likes: 2,896
From: Oklahoma
Hm, anything ELSE that might be important? Still no info on when (number of miles since) the most recent hub adjustment was made. The hub adjustment, recommended at every 5000 miles, sets the free space in the clutch release mechanism. As the clutch wears, the free space gets smaller. If the free space disappears, there is constant, slight, and increasing clutch release pressure which can lead to clutch slippage and quick destruction. The range of adjustment (in MY manual) is 1/2 to one turn out. If you choose to use the minimum setting, 1/2 turn, don't procrastinate on the NEXT setting as that 1/2 turn can be used up in that mileage. 3/4 to 1 turn allows for more clutch wear before the free space disappears. Then there is the MINIMUM lever free play. More free play than the minimum hurts nothing until there is so much that even with the lever pulled all the way in, the clutch does not fully release, that would be too much free play. Too little lever free play acts just like less than 1/2 turn out at the hub, there may be beginning clutch release force even with the lever fully released. Between the extremes, minimum required lever free play, and the point when the clutch drags with the lever fully pulled in against the grip, you can set the friction point where you want it with a cable adjustment, AFTER the hub is properly set.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: Tiffin,Oh
Btsom: I really really appreciate this. I'm gonna review the manual, and do what you say. I bought the bike about 300 miles ago, last fall. The previous owner, honest looking/acting adult 60yr old, said the bike was just fully serviced. I know that don't necessarily mean the clutch was done. It was fine last fall. Smooth as butter shifting, etc. Right now lever free play is probably 1/16". Feel free to educate me further. Thank you.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: SoCal
You're in Ohio. How long has it sat since you last rode it and what were the temps?
What you described can often happen when a bike has been sitting for awhile in cold conditions and the clutch plates tend to drag on first start up.
If blipping the throttle seems to clear the problem, it might just be viscosity drag in the primary.
ETA: Nevermind, I see it happened when warm.............
What you described can often happen when a bike has been sitting for awhile in cold conditions and the clutch plates tend to drag on first start up.
If blipping the throttle seems to clear the problem, it might just be viscosity drag in the primary.
ETA: Nevermind, I see it happened when warm.............
Last edited by 99Birdman; Feb 26, 2020 at 08:24 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Oklahoma
No sense in me copying and pasting the manual in here when you have one on your phone and a hard copy manual on the way. read through the sections you need and if you still have questions, ask. I, or most likely someone else will help, but remember, when it comes to advice, you get what you PAY for. Anything suggested in here will be in good faith but nothing beats a careful reading of the book.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: Tiffin,Oh
You're in Ohio. How long has it sat since you last rode it and what were the temps?
What you described can often happen when a bike has been sitting for awhile in cold conditions and the clutch plates tend to drag on first start up.
If blipping the throttle seems to clear the problem, it might just be viscosity drag in the primary.
ETA: Nevermind, I see it happened when warm.............
What you described can often happen when a bike has been sitting for awhile in cold conditions and the clutch plates tend to drag on first start up.
If blipping the throttle seems to clear the problem, it might just be viscosity drag in the primary.
ETA: Nevermind, I see it happened when warm.............
Ran great, didn't downshift as nice as before it seems? FWIW, my new breakout does the same thing when ya start it in gear....
Last edited by Superdog3:16; Feb 26, 2020 at 09:01 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 15,620
Likes: 27,704
From: SoCal
It takes awhile for the primary oil to come up to "normal" operating temp, particularly in colder weather.
The downshifting "problem" is also a symptom of thick oil in the clutch.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: Tiffin,Oh
Wow? It was 48°. I probably don't even have a problem, lol. Primary oil probably takes ALOT longer to warm up than let's say, the engine oil. I'll probably check it out the right way some day this winter. Thanx for all the knowledge.
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