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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 12:36 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by GalvTexGuy
Go to 11:15 on the video I posted.
These wheels do not seem to have any markings...
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 02:08 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by glsec507
These wheels do not seem to have any markings...
You're sure? It should be embossed into the rim. At least mine are. Maybe your rims aren't directional. I don't know. If not, maybe the brake rotors have an arrow?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 02:16 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by GalvTexGuy
You're sure? It should be embossed into the rim. At least mine are. Maybe your rims aren't directional. I don't know. If not, maybe the brake rotors have an arrow?
I looked all over the ones in my garage that used to be on the bike. I saw no marking and no difference between the side the abs bearing was in and the other side. Can't check the rotors as they were swapped to the new wheels. They are the 28 Knuckles style wheels.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 02:21 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by glsec507
I looked all over the ones in my garage that used to be on the bike. I saw no marking and no difference between the side the abs bearing was in and the other side. Can't check the rotors as they were swapped to the new wheels. They are the 28 Knuckles style wheels.
In that case, I guess it doesn't make any difference as long as the tire direction is right and the ABS bearing is on the primary side.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 06:48 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by glsec507
These wheels do not seem to have any markings...
the valve stem goes on the right hand side. (unless of course your wheels have valve stems that are right in the middle..... then you should have rotational arrows on the rotors)
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 06:50 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by skratch
the valve stem goes on the right hand side. (unless of course your wheels have valve stems that are right in the middle..... then you should have rotational arrows on the rotors)
Fairly certain the stems are in the middle. Guess I'll wait to see the rotors. Thanks
 
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Old Apr 10, 2020 | 07:04 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by glsec507
I know i know I need to just buy those tools. I'm just hung up on the fact I paid the money already. If they don't get it right this time I'm just getting a refund. Hopefully.
luckily they didn't charge me for their extra work trlying to get it to work. At the time I hadn't removed a tire from a bike so i was like wtf I'll leave it up to the "pros". It took 2 days or so for the tool to get here and it was easier and than changing damn oil.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 10:12 AM
  #48  
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Another update.

I am waiting on the Pit Posse kit to arrive. I am also waiting for a new set of front and rear bearings to arrive from JP. Screw that shop. Three tries and they struck out. They finally got the front wheel on and functioning...more on that in a second. The rear wheel was chirping on accel and decel. Basically under any load. Figured I just tightened the belt too much but after getting the bike up I noticed a click sound when rotating the wheel. Also noticed that the bearings were not seated at the same depths as the ones in the wheel that came off the bike. For now I am assuming the chirp was associated with the improper alignment caused by the deeper bearing. Gave them both rear wheels and told them to use the spacer from the old wheel and redo it. They did that and gave me back the wheel yesterday. The bearings are in so tight against the spacer that they will not rotate. Like at all. Not with any leverage my fingers can put on them anyway. I am not even going to put that wheel back on the bike. Just going to redo the bearings myself.

Now the front wheel is on and will spin freely without noise. That is of course if I take the calipers off. I needed to replace the pads anyway so I took that time to get that done but it seemed odd that they were causing so much friction to prevent the wheel from spinning freely. Upon further inspection I can that these bearings are not seating the same either. The non abs bearing is in deeper than the ones that were on the old wheels. Must be the wrong spacer size again. My plan is to remove the old spacer and use that one instead.

Below are pictures of the old and new front wheel and their bearings. Question is how does one know what the proper spacer size is? Are the bearings supposed to line up with the edge of the hub or what? I see nothing in the service manual that states what the correct depths should be. Only that the abs bearing goes in on the primary side first and gets fully seated in the hub. Then the non abs bearings gets pressed in until it touches the spacer. But what is the correct position it should end up in? Im thinking the bearing is too far in causing the rotors to not line up properly. The axle is further in than it should be too i think.

What do you guys think?

Also, what size thrust washers are needed for those of you who have used them with the pit posse or similar tool?


Current front wheel as received from the shop. Non ABS side. Notice bearing depth and how far in the axle is.

Current front wheel as received from the shop.

Old front wheel non abs side. Notice the bearing depth compared to the current wheel.

Old front wheel abs side.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:18 AM
  #49  
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Bump for haaaalp!

please
 
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:53 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by glsec507
Bump for haaaalp!

please
Originally Posted by glsec507
Another update.

I am waiting on the Pit Posse kit to arrive. I am also waiting for a new set of front and rear bearings to arrive from JP. Screw that shop. Three tries and they struck out. They finally got the front wheel on and functioning...more on that in a second. The rear wheel was chirping on accel and decel. Basically under any load. Figured I just tightened the belt too much but after getting the bike up I noticed a click sound when rotating the wheel. Also noticed that the bearings were not seated at the same depths as the ones in the wheel that came off the bike. For now I am assuming the chirp was associated with the improper alignment caused by the deeper bearing. Gave them both rear wheels and told them to use the spacer from the old wheel and redo it. They did that and gave me back the wheel yesterday. The bearings are in so tight against the spacer that they will not rotate. Like at all. Not with any leverage my fingers can put on them anyway. I am not even going to put that wheel back on the bike. Just going to redo the bearings myself.

Now the front wheel is on and will spin freely without noise. That is of course if I take the calipers off. I needed to replace the pads anyway so I took that time to get that done but it seemed odd that they were causing so much friction to prevent the wheel from spinning freely. Upon further inspection I can that these bearings are not seating the same either. The non abs bearing is in deeper than the ones that were on the old wheels. Must be the wrong spacer size again. My plan is to remove the old spacer and use that one instead.

Below are pictures of the old and new front wheel and their bearings. Question is how does one know what the proper spacer size is? It is 5.235". Are the bearings supposed to line up with the edge of the hub or what? As shown in the video I posted, full seat the ABS bearing first. Then, install opposite side bearing until it just contacts spacer. I see nothing in the service manual that states what the correct depths should be. Only that the abs bearing goes in on the primary side first and gets fully seated in the hub. Then the non abs bearings gets pressed in until it touches the spacer. This is correct. But what is the correct position it should end up in? Im thinking the bearing is too far in causing the rotors to not line up properly. With new brake pads, you are going to get some friction until they wear in. This is normal. The axle is further in than it should be too i think.

What do you guys think?

Also, what size thrust washers are needed for those of you who have used them with the pit posse or similar tool? I just used the washers that came with the kit.


Current front wheel as received from the shop. Non ABS side. Notice bearing depth and how far in the axle is. This is not right! It looks like they forgot the spacer! The bearing should be close to flush with the hub once it touches the spacer.

Current front wheel as received from the shop.

Old front wheel non abs side. Notice the bearing depth compared to the current wheel.

Old front wheel abs side.
. Read my replies.
 
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