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You won't have remove the bearing if the second bearing is Not in Position ... you just "push" the bearing further in.
If it happened to be the first bearing that is Not in Position (again unlikely), but only slightly, you can also push that one further in by using the "Bridge" (the remover) instead of the Flat disc on the opposite side. That insures that the only bearing that can be moved is the first bearing (aka Primary bearing)
You won't have remove the bearing if the second bearing is Not in Position ... you just "push" the bearing further in.
If it happened to be the first bearing that is Not in Position (again unlikely), but only slightly, you can also push that one further in by using the "Bridge" (the remover) instead of the Flat disc on the opposite side. That insures that the only bearing that can be moved is the first bearing (aka Primary bearing)
That makes sense but is there a way to visually see which bearing is not in position?
I'd almost rather just buy the tool and fix it myself..
"unless that bearing was Grossly mis-installed (for visual analysis) or you had a prior external measurement for a reference, one would not know that second bearing was the bearing in question."
You can't see the bottom of the bearing bores because the sleeve is in the way so you can't see the clearance between that and the bearing outer race. That's really in reference to the Priamry Bearing because the second bearing should always have some clearance when in correct position ... might very little .010" or "a lot" ~3/8" on some wheels (a lot is relative of course )
But you can test for which one is Not in position by the method I described earlier ... but I'll give you the External reference measurement and you can see if the Primary Bearing is in position (but again, very unlikely) and if it's at least very close, that will work too
Because of inexperience, you're focusing too much on that first bearing
Get a Tool, it will be easy
.
Last edited by multihdrdr; Mar 15, 2020 at 12:28 PM.
"unless that bearing was Grossly mis-installed (for visual analysis) or you had a prior external measurement for a reference, one would not know that second bearing was the bearing in question."
You can't see the bottom of the bearing bores because the sleeve is in the way so you can't see the clearance between that and the bearing outer race. That's really in reference to the Priamry Bearing because the second bearing should always have some clearance when in correct position ... might very little .010" or "a lot" ~3/8" on some wheels (a lot is relative of course )
But you can test for which one is Not in position by the method I described earlier ... but I'll give you the External reference measurement and you can see if the Primary Bearing is in position (but again, very unlikely) and if it's at least very close, that will work too
Because of inexperience, you're focusing too much on that first bearing
It's interesting ... Pit Posse has been around a long time as a Cheap tool (who copied it), now it seems either it's same tool (or a Copy of the original cheap tool), but there's a lot out there with different brand names but using the same part# and of course at least "Looking" the same
It's interesting ... Pit Posse has been around a long time as a Cheap tool (who copied it), now it seems either it's same tool (or a Copy of the original cheap tool), but there's a lot out there with different brand names but using the same part# and of course at least "Looking" the same
"unless that bearing was Grossly mis-installed (for visual analysis) or you had a prior external measurement for a reference, one would not know that second bearing was the bearing in question."
You can't see the bottom of the bearing bores because the sleeve is in the way so you can't see the clearance between that and the bearing outer race. That's really in reference to the Priamry Bearing because the second bearing should always have some clearance when in correct position ... might very little .010" or "a lot" ~3/8" on some wheels (a lot is relative of course )
But you can test for which one is Not in position by the method I described earlier ... but I'll give you the External reference measurement and you can see if the Primary Bearing is in position (but again, very unlikely) and if it's at least very close, that will work too
Because of inexperience, you're focusing too much on that first bearing
Get a Tool, it will be easy
.
ive only been here 6 months but Ive seen it many many times.
You are absolutely the go to guy on wheel issues
thank you for sharing your knowledge
seriously
Last edited by eighteight; Mar 15, 2020 at 03:35 PM.
...
I'd almost rather just buy the tool and fix it myself..
If you can do it yourself, you don't have to worry about a shop mechanic getting it done as quick as he can and/or being a bit careless. I'm sure you would not be careless and most likely try to be a perfectionist; we tend to be that way when It's our butt riding on it. And wive's, girlfriends. Kids... And it doesn't take a lot of bearings to save enough on labor to cover the tool. My most expensive motorcycle tool is my tire changer, and it didn't take long before it was saving more than it cost compared to taking a bike in for simple tire changes, but that was doing tires on a few bikes, not just one. I have tires to do 3 more sets right now.
Multi always has good advice, definitely ahead of me on this subject. I will add just a bit that I'm sure he knows already. That Pit Posse style bearing puller/installer (it's what I have) works fine, but prices are all over the place. The more expensive ones look the same, but some have a thrust bearing instead of plain washers the nut turns against. Harley bearings are (should be!) tight, and put a lot of friction resistance on plain washer models. Simple way to make those turn easier is just grease everything (washers, plates, screw threads) that rub against any other part. I'd still grease the bearing and threads on the thrust bearing models, too.
The Pit Posse style is fairly easy to use, just make sure everything is centered and where it should be before really cranking down on it. I won't say it's so easy a kid could do it, but maybe with a little supervision...
These are cheap, and work on small Yamaha trail bike bearings, but don't even be tempted to try this kind of puller on a Harley. Even if you got it out (doubtful) it won't install it.
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