65k Miles- Build Bottom End Too?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 457
Likes: 38
From: White Castle, Louisiana
65k Miles- Build Bottom End Too?
Im planning a Fuel Moto 110 Outlaw build soon shooting for 125hp/125tq. The bike has stage 2 with SE255 cams done, crank run out is .003. The bike has been very well maintained.
My question is: Should I do bottom end work too or can I get away with doing just the top end? Im turning all of the wrenchs so labor is nil. Budget is kind of on the tight side.
Convince me me either way... Go!
My question is: Should I do bottom end work too or can I get away with doing just the top end? Im turning all of the wrenchs so labor is nil. Budget is kind of on the tight side.
Convince me me either way... Go!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5,315
Likes: 4,272
From: Granville New York
Ill play lol...i have an 08 cvo road king that i did cams, headwork and dyno tuned. I did this with about 42k on the clock with .003 runout on a well cared for not abused bike. Well after the work i got about 6k on it and i hit the rev limiter once on a too late upshift. Picked up a noticeable vibration after that. Few days later started hearing some bad noises. Pulled the oil filter and cut it open, metal flakes...looked like brass/bronze either way not what you want to see. Pull the cams to check runout...now i had .0045, it was on the move and i had a bad bearing somewhere. Took off the top end and sure enough bsd connecting rod to go alongwith the wheels shifting, all from one missed shift. It sucked as it was right at beginning of september with lots of good riding still to come. Broke open the piggy bank and put in a darkhorse man o war crank and now i dont have worry about being gentle with the throttle or when i build it into a big bore this winter. Since youre doing your own labor the only extra cost will be the crank and few more gaskets. Now you could spend a small fortune doing your cases for a timken conversion and machining for a big build but you could also use the lefty bearing on both sides and just build a very strong 110. I went back and forth on mine a few times but since it came as a surprise i just didnt have the budget then and be able to get back on the road. I can still do a 117 drop on and that'll keep my power fix in check for awhile. If i need any more than what a good 117 will give im moving on to an m8 anyway. Good luck with the build
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 457
Likes: 38
From: White Castle, Louisiana
Now you guys got me thinking. I wanted a Fuel Moto kit but they don’t have a 117” on their website anymore. If I split the bottom end I’m going bigger than 110”. Ok, must do the bottom end. Thanks!!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5,315
Likes: 4,272
From: Granville New York
Suburban HD has a speed shop and they sell a 117 kit both drop on and a case bore, but if you bore caes just go 124. They sell mahle pistons with their stuff. Thats where im going to get my 117 cylinders from.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 10,809
Likes: 7,446
From: OH
[QUOTE=Screamin beagle;Well after the work i got about 6k on it and i hit the rev limiter once on a too late upshift. [/QUOTE]
What was the rev limiter set at?
tnx
What was the rev limiter set at?
tnx
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5,315
Likes: 4,272
From: Granville New York
Set at 5500. The bike had the stock 255s prior to the "big build", so i really never had to watch the rpms...you could feel the power go away after 4500. I was still getting used to the 570's, they just never stopped pulling. I was on my way to work on a two lane county route and passed two cars. Was in 5th so i banged down a gear and as i was passing it hit the limiter and popped like two times and put out a nice cloud of smoke...maybe unburnt fuel???
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