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Hey everyone. I've got a 2016 Electra Glide Ultra Classic. I recently purchased a 19" front Enforcer Wheel that came off of a 2016 Street Glide. It's probably important to note that my bike has ABS, and the Street Glide did not.
I've already swapped the bearing with a genuine OEM ABS bearing, so that part of it has been tackled. The issue I'm having now is that the rotor bolts on the left side of the bike hit the fork. Additionally, the rotor is off center from the calipur. Together, these two issues prevents the wheel from spinning when the axle nut is tightened.
What are my options here? Do I need to purchase a Street Glide wheel spacer for the right side? Do I need some sort of spacer for the left side (the ABS side)? Is this wheel simply incompatible with my bike? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
the wheel is definitely compatible with your bike. there is no difference in the wheel between abs or non-abs, except for the bearings. being that your bike is the same year as the donor bike, the only thing you should have to do is to put the abs bearing in the wheel. you aren't by chance using a spacer and the abs pickup on the same side are you? it looks like the right side spacer is the same whether you use abs or not, so only the left side is different.
the wheel is definitely compatible with your bike. there is no difference in the wheel between abs or non-abs, except for the bearings. being that your bike is the same year as the donor bike, the only thing you should have to do is to put the abs bearing in the wheel. you aren't by chance using a spacer and the abs pickup on the same side are you? it looks like the right side spacer is the same whether you use abs or not, so only the left side is different.
No, the only thing on the left/ABS side is the ABS pickup itself, nothing more.
sure you used an abs bearing? otherwise, i'm not sure what it could be. the left bearing is installed first, and bottomed out, the wss spaces the wheel, and then you have the fork. so it isn't like you 'forgot' a spacer or anything.
Here's the final update on this fiasco. The wheel bearings were installed incorrectly (too far to one side). I got them straightened out and everything fits perfectly.
I put an agitator rim from and 11 CVO on mine and the same thing happened. The shop couldnt get the bearings right so i got the tool and did it myself in 5 damn mins.
I put an agitator rim from and 11 CVO on mine and the same thing happened. The shop couldnt get the bearings right so i got the tool and did it myself in 5 damn mins.
Same here! Took it to the shop twice and they couldn't figure it out. So I just got a big socket and a rubber mallet and moved the bearings to the correct spot, and that was the end of that! Five minute fix.
Same here! Took it to the shop twice and they couldn't figure it out. So I just got a big socket and a rubber mallet and moved the bearings to the correct spot, and that was the end of that! Five minute fix.
I have to tell you if you beat those bearing into the hub you ruined them. They need to be supported on the inner and outer races or you have side loaded the bearing and will reduce it's life very fast. If it were me i would buy 2 more new bearings and reinstall using the correct tool and method. This needs to be done by the book if you want to get some miles out of them. Plus, it's a safety item too.
Agreed. If you pushed one bearing out by beating the other in, they are not long for this world.
Whatever race of a bearing is press fit, that's the race you put pressure on to install it. For this application, it's the outer race.
Press the ABS or primary (left front, right rear) bearing in first, all the way to the bottom of the pocket in the wheel. Press the other bearing in till the inner spacer just makes contact between the two. Done. This order of operations is what the other shop didn't do right.
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