I have another question.... does anybody with a similar ride have installed an aftermarket gear indicator?

I have to accept that sometimes I don't know where I ended mostly at stop signs...

 

Your kidding right???
Short of if the trans is in Neutral or not, the MM ECU doesn't have a clue, much less telling another device like an add on gear indicator that information either (unless there is a MM firmware flash that I don't know about).

On the newer ECM's starting in 07, the gear position (1 thru 6) is derived in the ECU by comparing RPM and vehicle speed to be able to send out the signal.

Now on the other hand, if your MM ECM has been changed out to a S&S VFI, may have a sporting chance to get it to work with the gear indicator units (maybe). The glitch here, Harley stop selling the VFI's with tune disc a while back, and S&S dropped as of last year. The VFI's where going for around $500 when available, and would have to check in it's software (S&S Protune II) if its able to indicate gear position or not to start with, or if a firmware update is available to get it to do such since it just a software kind of thing .

https://catalog.zodiac.nl/en/catalog...ection-module/

And again, when you bought the unit from Harley, it came with the Disc of firmware to flash in the tune for your bike to make the install painless. If you got the unit direct from S&S (little less money), did not come with the tune disc that had all the tunes for the bikes to flash it in yourself, and had to pretty much do a tune from scratch instead.

As for the way I look at it, you can do the left foot down only trick when you come to a stop initially, but since it a heavy bike to begin with, put both feed down after the stop so a gust of wind/ passenger on the back shifting all over the place at the stop, does not end up with your laying the bike down to the right during the stop. Now with your right foot down, not hard to give the shift pedal a few taps with your left foot to make sure it's in first gear, and even put the bike into neutral if it going to be a long light instead.

 

Jajajajaja I saw that coming this way...... I gues I'll stay with the Right Foot - Left Foot drill.

 

Hello guys and gals, well... WE ARE BACK ON THE ROAD !!!!

"Jessica" is running almost perfect, fuel pump is great, new tires make a difference, injectors just needed to be serviced.... Fuel Gauge arrived and Tristarr received the sending unit today to be rebuild, luckily I'll have it back by the end on next week.

The PF3C TPS is working good but as expected with a couple of spots in the throttle run where is to lean or to rich.... nothing major, I'll re-check the settings next weekend.

Thanks again and if you come by a PF4C at a reasonable price let me know.

I'll keep you posted

 

And what happened, did someone steal your Bell?

 

Thanks Dano.

Does that work for the mail headlight as well? I Suppose it does but is better to ask. On the bell let me tell you I took out the one it had when I got it as the legend says that the bell is given to the raider and you should not keep a bell that wasn't given to you... and as the previous owner passed away there is no way he can give it to me.... waiting for a good friend or fellow rider to have a kind gesture hahahaha.

On the other hand... I took an 80 mile highway trip yesterday to check on a truck one of my kids is interested on.... and everything went fine... well almost... @ 75+ mph I started getting some wobble (I am confused between wobble and tankslapper) on the front... handlebars started to go back and forth or side to side ( don't know the correct term) as I was cruising steady... sometimes at 75 or 80 or even till I hit 90 ( yeah I know but I was testing the Jessica).

I've read a lot here and to many opinion and options... Do the fall away test and adjust steering head bearings accordingly.... Front Brake Rotors... Fork Oil Levels ... Front Motor Mount... Rear swing Arm bushings... and so on.

Any Ideas on that?

Regards

 

Forgot to mention... Tires are brand new Michelin Commander III's

 

The fork mounted wind deflectors make a huge difference in not only the amount of air that is coming up under the windsheild at 60+ to cause bobble head, but helps to settle the front end down from about 20mph up as well (think steering dampener).
https://shopbigskyharley.com/product...ind-deflectors



Next keep in mind that Harley did not pull the front and rear tire in line together (both down the center line of the frame) until 06, but there are other things that you can do to prevent high speed wobble on the older Touring frame bikes.

Hence problem for the most part, is the swing arm/rear starts to move off it tracking line due to all the rubber isolators. So as you are going down the street, or even in a corner, the back tire is not only swinging out to side to side, but changing the tram line of the tire to the center line of the frame as well

Step one is to ditch old the rear swing arm rubber cleve bloc bushings, and go to spherical bushing like on the newer bikes.


Even with the spherical bushings in the swing arm, you still have the swing arm flex via the swing arm side rubber mounts, so Progressive link helps to solve that problem next (adds the third link to the back end of the trans).


Notice on the swing arm bracket plate, where the rear peg bolts attach, it has a raised tab section, where the above progressive link plate is just thicker over all and does not have the raise section isntead. This will cause some problems when you go to use a factory engine alignment tool.



Moving forward, not sure when the last time you check the front motor mount, but bank that is cracked all to hell on the bottom side, and not helping the problem. You can go with one of the drag specialty mounter mounts on the cheap that will just crack out as fast, so spend the extra money for the updated Harley mount that last a lot longer instead. Hence upper rubber part that fits against the bottom of the engine bracket plate helps to keep the lower bushing at insert from cracking out again so quickly. And no, the fact that every time you change the oil filter you flood out the mount, is not helping to make the motor mount last any longer.



Now with the fun part and that is to break out engine aligment tools to align the motor/swing arm to the frame as you putting everything back together. The tools works fairly well, but there is trick when using them, and that is to check the rear end to make sure it 's tram with the frame in the end.

So we start with the both front and top turn buckles off, new motor mount loose in place, bike frame level on lift, then use the aligment tools to pull the motor/ rear end in line with the frame. Now just connect the top and front turn buckles so they are centered and get the front engine mount tightened down so center of bushing is center of bracket channel , but don't install the progressive link yet, and pull the engine alignment tools.

Double check the frame to make sure it still level, then use an angle gauge on the rear disc to make sure that it reading 90*. If it not reading 90* (swing arm not tram to frame), then adjust the top turn buckle only to get the swing arm tram with the frame.
Note, you can check center line of shock bolts per side lengths, to each other per side, to make sure that swing arm is tram to frame as well.

Now that we have the rear tire in line with the frame/swing arm tram to the frame as well, now we can install the Progressive turn buckle lasts.

To back it up a touch on the engine alignment tool, engine alignment tool will come with three different inner adjusters. The two for the bolt sides that the bolt spins on the shaft, and last one for the other side that the bolt is welded onto the shaft on the older bikes instead. So since I not a fan of the welded bolt side centering tool since it depending on the bolt wrench flat ends of the nut to index, Before I install the swing arm axle in the bike, will lathe the end of the welded bolt side on the shaft so I can use the thread on bolt adjuster instead.

Also, since the progressive line side plate is thicker than the stock plate on the right hand side of the bike and does not have the raised tab section where the peg mount would bolt on, will need to pick up a longer bolt with inner washer and even mod the tool as well.

So we start with cleaning up the new swing arm shaft at the welded end to give it the same clean taper as the tool we want to use before it installed on the bike,


Hence this is the tool you are supposed to use that will index on the ends of the bolt,


But with the end taper true to the shaft, we can use this tool that aligns better/ is stronger, to the end of the taper end of the shaft instead,



Next, since the Progressive Link right hand plate does not have the step tab side, but is thick and flush all the way across and going to make the inner centering tool deeper in the plate alignment tool when the block is installed that much farther off, we need to remove about half of the knurled end from the right hand side tool for the inner tool (to be able to still get to the end wrench section).



On the right hand side block for the progressive plate, we to need washer stake the inner surface so the inside of the block lays flat on the top of plate all the way across,
Note, stock bolt is 1-1/2", while you will need to swap it out to a 2" bolt to work with the progressive link plate as well (stock bolt in the photo to show you how short is is when block is washer stacked to work with the progressive link plate).



As for right hand side engine alignment tool ready to go for use with the progressive link plate (and again, have the stock shorter bolt in play, that needs to be swapped with a 2" bolt to get enough engagement into the threads of the progressive link plant).



As for how the tools works once you have the swing arm shaft nut to 45fl lbs in the first place, you first loosely install the bolt via allen bolt to the side plate while holding it flush, screw the outer taper tool in until is flushes to the side swing arm plates channel, then tighten the allen bolt to 10ft lbs to hold the block aligned flushed to the swing arm plate itself. Now the inner tool with taper end, these are threaded in to no more than 40 ft lbs (working side to side as you bring the tension up, and moving the rear wheel/swing arm/front of the motor to align the end of the swing arm shaft to the taper on the inner tool), until you bring both sides up to a max of 40 ft lbs, and have the swing arm shaft indexed to the center of the swing arm side plate channels.


As for aligning the motor via strings or straight edge on the tire, the huge, and I mean huge problem I have with such, is if your triple clamp have the slightest of bend, or forks have the slightest of bend, then front tire is not go to tram Zero with it pointing straight down the middle line of the frame to start with. So with front tire now trammed to zero, but not pointing down the center line of the frame, all your going to do is now pull the rear tire off center line axis to have the bike crabbing down the street instead.
Throw in the fact that any touring bike before 06 has the rear tire off set of the center line of frame (which the front tire is center line of frame), and you an make a real mess trying to string/straight edge the back tire true with the center line of frame with it's factory off set.

As for front end, really need to set up a laser above the bike with the frame level, so you can shot the laser down the frame center line, and through the front tire line to make sure it pointing straight down the frame. Then you can throw an angle gauge on the front rotor to make sure is reading 90* to the frame line. I'll give you a hint, and it not going to be in either case, since your head set tube was not welded tram to the frame to begin with. Hence one side of the tube was welded and then the other side next, and the heat from the welding pulled the tube off tram, and head tube was not tram true before the bike was built.

So normal to not only have offset on the front tire to center line of the frame on what Harley is calling a straight frame, but tire axle line not tram to frame with front tire at least running parallel to the center line of the frame as well. Hence trying to use the front tire, to align the back tire (short of laser bench set up), will always end badly.

So with the engine alignment tool and last tram check of the swing arm with the frame as well, we at least know that the back end is close enough for government work to start with against the frame. Then from here, we can string line/straight line off the back tire, to see how how bad the front end is next.
Hence if the front tire/axle will tram to zero with the front tire running parallel to the rear tire (which is running parallel to the level frame), and again don't forget about the rear wheel off sets on pre-06 bikes that has to be accounted for as well.

So $100 for fork mounted wind deflector, $200 for spherical bushing kit, $200 for the progressive link kit, and someone like me local to you that has the needed tools /talent that you can feed Coke zero's and pizza to, for about 4hrs while telling war stories, all would be right in the world to solve the wobble problem.
Worse case, may have to replace the wheel bearing is they are going south as well, but at less than $10 a bearing with race (USA timken), Add $58 for all new wheel bearing and seals if needed, and about a half hour more time to change them out.




__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________
Or, could be that the new tires are not balanced correctly,
and/or under~over pressured that is causing the wobble problem, that that older D402's did not cause instead.

 

Thanks Dano and an apology for not answering before, I was out of town for close to a month.

I'll like to share that upon my arrival back to the States i took a 150 miles trip last Saturday (almost under 75 all the time to avoid the wobble) and Jessica turn 100 on that trip, In general with all suggestions and tips I've got she's running 90% I'll say.

Where in Colorado are you? I'm going to a wedding at the end of September and I'll be glad to bring the Coke Zero and the Pizza... jajajaja ... this is really way out of my mechanical abilities.. I'll need to check with the Indie that service her.

Thanks

 

I forgot to ask.... one of my buddies want's to add Passing Lights to his 2019 Street Glide ( he should have bought a Road King jajaja).

We're having a hard time finding the left in fairing switch (the one that goes in the left on the dash) and also to know if the there is already a harness inside the fairing to feed this lights or you have to run a fused line for it.

Thanks