Passing lights would need a switch for them, then they power up back in the light connector.

On the RK's, the steering lock, and newer ingnition switch when it was pushed to the old steering lock covers have the two holes both sides for the switches just below the cover. OEM, the right hand switch is used for the passing lights, while the ACC switch is on the right. I have swapped the switches around, since If I need to turn the passing lights on, easy to do it with my left hand on that side of the cover isntead.


On the road glide, should still have a empty switch slot that he can add in a switch instead.


Here is a thread with the factory wiring if you want to just tap into the head light wire (yellow, and the passing lights will go out if he turns on the high beam) or if he is not using his ACC, then could just tap off it instead.
Note, If you use 20 amp diodes so the white and yellow wires are not feeding back to each other to the head light to turn both the high and low beams on at the same time , you can tap off both the yellow and white wires, and when you switch the passing lights on, they will stay on with both low and high beams.

So on the diodes, Anode side of each 15 amp diode gets connected to the white, and the other diode to the yellow wire, then cathode sides of the diodes are connected together, then to the switch, and switch other side wire back to the passing lights.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...ng-custom.html

Also to point out, if you do want both the high and low beams on at the same time as well as the passing lights to really light up the road, diode trick works for this as well ( just need one 20 amp diode.

You would put the Anode side of the 20 diode on the white wire, and the cathode side on the yellow wire.
On low beam, power can not get past back the diode to energize the high beams, but when you put light switch to high beams to power it up alone, power can flow through the diode to energize the low beam and passing lights on the yellow wire as well.

As for location, I'm in Denver, and if you did want to make a day of it getting your engine aligned, not a problem. If you have not picked up a progressive suspension touring link, do so, since we can install it at the same time, and it makes world of difference. Hell, if you want to go full Monty get the back end solid like the new bikes, then spherical bushing kit too that we can install as well, since it would only add about a hours worth of work once we are that deep into the bike to begin with.

https://www.denniskirk.com/v-twin-ma...prd/585466.sku

 

Hello to you all, hope everybody is doing fine in this extraordinary times we are living.

Jessica has been running "fine", improving with every little change and update I've made to her. Finally got my hands on a PF4C TPS that I should have installed and set up this weekend. I changed the headlight for a day maker, re-installed the Tour Pack. Didi my first ever three hole oil change and proud to say that for the first time since I bought it there is no leak whatsoever.

Now my issue, as some of you may remember when I bought it Jessica had been sitting for over 2 years on a storage container with fuel on it.... thank was really bad inside... took it out, acid cleaned it, recoated it, new fuel pump and everything worked, the issue is the Cup where the Fuel Gauge sit is the kind that has an opening in the middle for the fuel gauge sending unit (I think that comes only 99-01 for the Magnetti Marelli Fuel Injected ones)... long story short I cant put more than half tank of gas as if I do it starts leaking thru that hole or screw holes and from there thru the little tube for the wiring. So #1 Fuel leak and #2 I can't ride more than a 100 miles without refueling.

Any ideas? I've been looking all over for a new or in good shape used tank with no luck.... I need two lines on the bottom, and that kind of Cup for the sending unit.... does anybody know who or where can I look for it... So far eBay only have one but seller hasn't responded to a couple of questions I have.

 

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https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...ENT%20ASSEMBLY
Your missing gasket 13, hence 61324-88a and it should be under the lower ring, so chances it's in the wrong spot, or if in the correct spot, may need to use some RVT with it.
Note, O ring 12 is just the beauty ring for the gauge, to keep up in slightly off the tank surface, so it goes on the bottom of the gauge when you snap it in place.

On the bolts, use some RTV on them, to seal the bolt heads mating surfaces to the fuel sending plate (so the fuel does not wick up the bolt threads).



Really, just take a photo or two of the install of the tank fuel sending unit (how you have all the parts lined up in order, and even pull the parts so we can see the bolting flange in the tank for the sending unit), and should be quick work solving the problem of what is out of order, or missing isntead.

 

Man, you are always spot on with your answers, thanks DANO... I'll work on disassembly with pictures so I can show you the status of everything and get your opinion.

By memory I think have an issue here.... Does the fuel gauge sending unit base (33) goes over the bottom of the cup in the Tank, with the gasket (13) obviously between them?.. trying to be more clear, when installing the sending unit you put the gasket and then squeeze the sending unit through the opening in the cup from above?

For some reason I think this one is installed from the inside of the tank.....

Regards

 

 

Hello to you all.... an apology I've been out of the loop for some time.

With Pandemic, Work, Dad passing and some other things I've been pretty much riding on the weekends just to relax and disconnect.

I was able to get rid of the wobble by replacing wheel and swing arm axels, bushings, spacers and so on... well it still wobbles a little some times over 90 mph but as that's not how I usually ride I have no issues whatsoever.

I took the tank off send it to a fabricator and they removed the fuel gauge "cup" and the little pipe for the wiring and made a new one.... I finally can ride with a full tank (160-180 miles depending on speed) I still do have a very small leak (a drop every 5-6 seconds) when I top it off and put it on the Jiffy Stand, not with the bike straight up.... If I stop after riding 40 miles no more leak (obviously because the fuel level is lower)... again this only happens when i fill it up almost all the way to the hole... that I do by mistake when I'm riding longer distances.

 

I forgot to ask... Last Saturday I was riding fine but suddenly I realized that my speedo reading wasn't changing... it was stuck at 48 mph, then I realized my turn signal indicators didn't come on so I stopped and turn signals are not working (everything was working before I pulled over to fill the tank). The neutral light comes on, brake lights working, headlight working.... I haven't had the time to check fuses yet, I only read something regarding that it may be the speed indicator????

Thanks in advance.

PD... 106,000 and going strong....