I agree, has done the same for me also with talking me thru it.

 

I service brake fluid every 2 years and use RedLine RL600 fluid, exceeds DOT 5.1 and I highly recommend it, Summit Racing is my source...

 

If for whatever reason you got air in the lines, does the ECU trip a code? How would the ITM device help?
Just curious.

UltraMonte

 

I don't think the ECU will throw a code, but you sure can tell if you have air in the lines. The ITM is used to purge the ABS system and flush out the old fluid. Speed bleeders make it super easy to bleed the brake lines being I am alone when I work on my bike most of the time.

 

I only ask because everything I've read says it takes a trip to the dealer. Is this to purge air, reset code, or both?

UltraMonte

 

Things become more clear when you realize brake fluid doesn't circulate in a closed system, it moves a small fraction of an inch to transfer pressure from the master cylinder to the calipers. When the activation pressure is released, the fluid moves the fraction of an inch back to its resting position. Think of the ABS control unit as a second master cylinder that removes and reapplies pressure on the caliper end of the system. The only fluid circulation is in and out of a small accumulator as pressure is relieved from the system by opening the accumulator and then reapplied by the little pump emptying the accumulator. Again, the fluid only moves within the ABS module, not in the brake line line. Fluid only moves when the system is flushed while the system in OPEN. Any fresh fluid being sucked into the ABS unit and then being pushed out after a home system flush is very minimal. The system needs to be open for the fluid pumped by the ABS unit to MOVE down the line and draw new fluid in. This can only be accomplished by cycling the ABS unit while the system is open, not closed. The home flush and then riding to activate the ABS system is probably better than nothing, but doesn't completely flush the ABS unit because the system must be closed for the brakes to work and therefore the brake fluid is again "stuck" where it is.

 

Isn't the system closed, not open when you cycle the ABS? Maybe I don't understand the terms "open" and "closed" as used?
I followed this up to this point.

UltraMonte

 

I try to once a year change my brake fluid and once a month active my abs. I figure trying to lock up the brakes is just as good as spending hundreds.

 

Yes, presuming you are riding AFTER the flush and cycling the ABS then. Because the system is closed, little if any of the new fluid gets into the ABS unit. The system must be open for fluid to actually leave the ABS unit (to be flushed out) and new fluid pushed into the ABS unit. With the system open the only way the ABS can be cycled to allow the flush is with one of the electronic gadgets mentioned above, or the digital technician at the dealer. Is that better or worse for confusion? Sorry it wasn't stated better the first try.

 

The trip to the dealer is all about cycling the ABS unit in such a way that the old fluid in the ABS unit is exchanged with new fluid. The problem with these ABS units is that old fluid causes things to get stuck internally, and it's not anything that can be repaired. So keeping new fluid in the ABS unit will keep things from getting bunged up. Some have, and I did, flush the system and take a ride, activating the front and rear ABS. The theory there is that doing that will exchange enough fluid to keep things happy. I bought the Infotech unit this year and it works great. Makes the whole process really easy. I installed speed bleeders as well, making things really quick and easy. I highly recommend both.