2021 cable clutch
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 6,088
Likes: 6,445
From: East TN
Currently my 13 and my 19 CVO's have good feeling hydraulic clutches. Work great on bikes that are built. I did not add any slave cylinders or such. I did add the AIM VP-SDR lock up to the 13 clutch to handle the 140 torque. On the 19 I added the ReKluse clutch plates to handle the 167 torque. Nothing added to make it pull easier or adjustable.
Not happy about cable clutch.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,932
Likes: 882
From: SOON TO BE A SAFE AMERICA
They will never convince me other wise. Out of 7 bikes with Hydraulic clutch only the 12 had an issue, a bad seal in the master cylinder.
Currently my 13 and my 19 CVO's have good feeling hydraulic clutches. Work great on bikes that are built. I did not add any slave cylinders or such. I did add the AIM VP-SDR lock up to the 13 clutch to handle the 140 torque. On the 19 I added the ReKluse clutch plates to handle the 167 torque. Nothing added to make it pull easier or adjustable.
Not happy about cable clutch.
Currently my 13 and my 19 CVO's have good feeling hydraulic clutches. Work great on bikes that are built. I did not add any slave cylinders or such. I did add the AIM VP-SDR lock up to the 13 clutch to handle the 140 torque. On the 19 I added the ReKluse clutch plates to handle the 167 torque. Nothing added to make it pull easier or adjustable.
Not happy about cable clutch.
I TOTALLY agree Dave!
I feel you & I think alike on many changes the MoCo has made over the last decade.
YB
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 3,269
Likes: 3,719
From: oxford, pa
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 391
Likes: 176
From: Leicestershire, United Kingdom
I currently ride a twin cam, but could see an M8 softail in my future; the fluid transfer issue and its association with the hydraulic clutch mechanism put me off even considering the M8 touring models. With the change to a cable operated clutch, an M8 touring model is now an option. So, if the reasoning was that potential customers were put off the touring models, the change is a good decision.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 456
Likes: 205
From: Manchester, MI
I currently ride a twin cam, but could see an M8 softail in my future; the fluid transfer issue and its association with the hydraulic clutch mechanism put me off even considering the M8 touring models. With the change to a cable operated clutch, an M8 touring model is now an option. So, if the reasoning was that potential customers were put off the touring models, the change is a good decision.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 8,536
From: Bates County MO
Saves the MOCO a bunch of $/unit - compare cost of all parts required for just the clutch control, excluding actual clutch components. Combine that with reducing the carryover complaints, and the "lever feel" some folks hate, and it's plausible, the bean counters and engineers listened to each other.
MSRP for the complete cable setup is $199.84.
MSRP for the hydraulic control setup is $523.78
MSRP for the complete cable setup is $199.84.
MSRP for the hydraulic control setup is $523.78
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,159
Likes: 11,249
From: San Diego, CA
Saves the MOCO a bunch of $/unit - compare cost of all parts required for just the clutch control, excluding actual clutch components. Combine that with reducing the carryover complaints, and the "lever feel" some folks hate, and it's plausible, the bean counters and engineers listened to each other.
Bingo....!!!
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 447
Likes: 427
From: Midwest
Saw that Paladino post. Then watched it. For a pro he uses the clutch like an amateur. No wonder he has so many problems. He actually uses his entire hand on the clutch and is not even holding the grip with any fingers.
I am not surprised someone with such poor technique has problems with the hydro clutch. Shocking that he is teaching people in such an unsafe manner.
For people who think the throw is too far out, try one of these accepted best practice techniques. 1. Hold grip with pinky and ring finger and use index and middle to activate clutch, 2. Use all thee fingers to hold grip and index for clutch. 3. Use middle finger for clutch and the other 3 to hold the grip.
It IS NEVER SAFE to use all fingers on the clutch since you have no actual control of the grip, EXCEPT if stopped for a long period and you need the relief, but then immediately regain your control grip.
You will find the friction zone is simple to control and in a perfect position. It is the same with the brake. You alway ride with one finger on the lever and at most use 2 to activate.
It is pretty obvious he can ride slow well but he has obviously never raced anything or done trials or extreme enduro or harescrambles where proper clutch usage and activation and bike control are critical.
I am not surprised someone with such poor technique has problems with the hydro clutch. Shocking that he is teaching people in such an unsafe manner.
For people who think the throw is too far out, try one of these accepted best practice techniques. 1. Hold grip with pinky and ring finger and use index and middle to activate clutch, 2. Use all thee fingers to hold grip and index for clutch. 3. Use middle finger for clutch and the other 3 to hold the grip.
It IS NEVER SAFE to use all fingers on the clutch since you have no actual control of the grip, EXCEPT if stopped for a long period and you need the relief, but then immediately regain your control grip.
You will find the friction zone is simple to control and in a perfect position. It is the same with the brake. You alway ride with one finger on the lever and at most use 2 to activate.
It is pretty obvious he can ride slow well but he has obviously never raced anything or done trials or extreme enduro or harescrambles where proper clutch usage and activation and bike control are critical.