Longer handlebar riser bolts for polyurethane bushings?
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 11
From: Rapid City, SD
Longer handlebar riser bolts for polyurethane bushings?
Hi! I just installed Alloy Art Gooden-Tite GT-2S polyurethane bushings on my '10 Street Glide... was I supposed to get longer riser bolts? The packaging wasn't quite clear and there are no instructions. When I did the same on my '04 Ultra Classic, I had used the H-D bushing kit and the kit came with some replacement bolts.
To the best of my knowledge, the bolts are 1/2"x13... Are the stock bolts 2" long? Should I have purchased 2.25" bolts?
Thanks!
-Carl
To the best of my knowledge, the bolts are 1/2"x13... Are the stock bolts 2" long? Should I have purchased 2.25" bolts?
Thanks!
-Carl
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 11
From: Rapid City, SD
Hmmm... I just found a picture of the packaging. It says that longer 2.25" riser bolts are required for 2014-2016 Touring models which I take to mean that my stock riser bolts are just fine.
Does anyone know what the difference is?
Thanks!
Does anyone know what the difference is?
Thanks!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 11,255
From: San Diego, CA
I can't help because I've never installed polyurethane bushings in any of my bikes....
But now I am now curious about the answer to your question..
Based on what you found on the packaging, it seems you should be OK... but it wouldn't hurt to have a couple of the longer bolts on hand when you do the installation... bolts are pretty cheap...
Let us know how the install goes and what you needed to do...
Good luck with the install...
But now I am now curious about the answer to your question..
Based on what you found on the packaging, it seems you should be OK... but it wouldn't hurt to have a couple of the longer bolts on hand when you do the installation... bolts are pretty cheap...
Let us know how the install goes and what you needed to do...
Good luck with the install...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23,399
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From: Spartan Country, Michigan
If you did need to get new bolts, be careful on what you order/buy for what. There are grade 2, grade 5, and grade 8. Grade 8 being the strongest of the three. I would use grade 8 on suspension components and any part that has s lot of stress. Grade 5 I would use on all other fasteners. Grade 2 I would use for grips, switches, small electrical components and things that do not require a strong strength.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 447
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From: Bronxville ny
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: SWFL
Alloy Art GNT bushings are a little taller then stock when new. On T-bars I usually get 1/2 longer bolts (ALWAYS grade 8) just because it makes it easier to get them threaded. Otherwise on baggers that use low riser clamps you sometimes have to muscle them down into the upper triple, and apply a lot of pressure to get the threads to grab. Once they start, its fine and they compress easily. Ive also used a big c-clamp to squeeze them down. Also, some bikes have nuts and studs - I always toss them and replace with grade 8 bolts, lock and flat washers. Your typical ACE hardware will always have the hardware, but usually only in 1/2 increments. Just be careful if using a low riser not to extend into the handlebar clamp area if upgrading bolts.
And RED loctite. Yes red! You dont ever, ever want handlebar bolts coming loose. Plus those bolts are plenty strong enough to be able to break the bond if needed to remove. Ive done it plenty...
And RED loctite. Yes red! You dont ever, ever want handlebar bolts coming loose. Plus those bolts are plenty strong enough to be able to break the bond if needed to remove. Ive done it plenty...
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 437
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From: Missouri
I read a lot of negative reviews on the bolts being to short and it being next to impossible to put it back together. I paid the $10-$15 for the poly from HD that comes with the new bolts from the dealer. Totally happy.
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