Brakelight blues
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 856
Likes: 373
From: Duke City, NM
Rear brake is telling the bike that it is engaged and the break light is always on? If I am reading correctly then that is probably the issue. Clean that stuff up and hit with a little wd40 and work it a little. Otherwise work right there and replace.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,175
Likes: 2,221
From: College Station, TX
Have you checked the rear brake switch for continuity when the pedal is not depressed? And does the brake light go out if you disconnect the wires from the rear brake light switch? And, the brake light switch works off fluid pressure, so be sure there is no pressure closing the switch circuit.
I don't have a wiring diagram for a 2010 Touring, but on the later models there is a grey (may be a different color on that year) connector (I believe it is a 4 wire connector) under the seat that feeds power to the rear lights. Check the connectors for power or damaged wiring.
I do not see how a bad ABS sensor could cause the brake lights to stay on.
Paul
I don't have a wiring diagram for a 2010 Touring, but on the later models there is a grey (may be a different color on that year) connector (I believe it is a 4 wire connector) under the seat that feeds power to the rear lights. Check the connectors for power or damaged wiring.
I do not see how a bad ABS sensor could cause the brake lights to stay on.
Paul
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
From: Sequim wa
Brakelight blues update
I just replaced both switches yesterday even though they tested ok. (2010 ultra classic)
The wiring schematic is hard to follow but orange/yellow and red/yellow are the 2 wires that go to brake switch. I pulled it all back apart and tested by putting hatpin in each wire and hooking ohm meter to it, then push button which theoretically should turn off brake.
red/yellow tests at 12.48 and with (new) button pushed it changes to 7.40 this cant be right? The orange/yellow is showing 12.40 with button in or out. I believe orange/yellow is constant hot and red/yellow should only red 12v when button is released, or completing circuit. Am I seeing this wrong? So does that mean something hot is grounding? I dont know where to go from here.
The wiring schematic is hard to follow but orange/yellow and red/yellow are the 2 wires that go to brake switch. I pulled it all back apart and tested by putting hatpin in each wire and hooking ohm meter to it, then push button which theoretically should turn off brake.
red/yellow tests at 12.48 and with (new) button pushed it changes to 7.40 this cant be right? The orange/yellow is showing 12.40 with button in or out. I believe orange/yellow is constant hot and red/yellow should only red 12v when button is released, or completing circuit. Am I seeing this wrong? So does that mean something hot is grounding? I dont know where to go from here.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,175
Likes: 2,221
From: College Station, TX
I just replaced both switches yesterday even though they tested ok. (2010 ultra classic)
The wiring schematic is hard to follow but orange/yellow and red/yellow are the 2 wires that go to brake switch. I pulled it all back apart and tested by putting hatpin in each wire and hooking ohm meter to it, then push button which theoretically should turn off brake.
red/yellow tests at 12.48 and with (new) button pushed it changes to 7.40 this cant be right? The orange/yellow is showing 12.40 with button in or out. I believe orange/yellow is constant hot and red/yellow should only red 12v when button is released, or completing circuit. Am I seeing this wrong? So does that mean something hot is grounding? I dont know where to go from here.
The wiring schematic is hard to follow but orange/yellow and red/yellow are the 2 wires that go to brake switch. I pulled it all back apart and tested by putting hatpin in each wire and hooking ohm meter to it, then push button which theoretically should turn off brake.
red/yellow tests at 12.48 and with (new) button pushed it changes to 7.40 this cant be right? The orange/yellow is showing 12.40 with button in or out. I believe orange/yellow is constant hot and red/yellow should only red 12v when button is released, or completing circuit. Am I seeing this wrong? So does that mean something hot is grounding? I dont know where to go from here.
Paul
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 856
Likes: 373
From: Duke City, NM
**** this is painful. You’re cruise will not work because the bike thinks it is braking. Your brake lights are always on (I think because in the first post they weren’t working). Pull both switches and if it’s still on you have a wiring issue, if not plug one in at a time to find which one might be causing the issue with an open ground. If all of that is a problem you can’t fix the call the Indy or a dealer.
there are enough things we can’t test or see what you are getting to get it all wrong.
there are enough things we can’t test or see what you are getting to get it all wrong.
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 10
Likes: 2
From: Sequim wa
Brakelight blues update 2
Replaced both switches (didnt think either was bad) and it made no difference. I removed flashers (aftermarket flash kit installed by dealer when bike was new) no change. Replaced rear tailight with original.
My problem is one wire to rear brakelight switch is hot (12v in) but other wire is reading 7v.
Brakelight is on even if both wires are disconnected. That would seem front brake switch but its not.
The stoplight switch wire that should be zero volts till switch energizes it ,..is R/BE which goes to abs diode pack so I bought new one. No difference.
I hate to admit defeat but have disassembled a good deal of bike with no wire chafe or issues. Before I give hard earned money to shop...any suggestions? Can speed sensor or abs cause this? Sure would like to stumble across problem.
The power plug to abs control module DOES turn off the power to 7v side of rear switch so could control module have went bad? Can I disable entire abs and take it out of equation? I have wrenched a lot of years but brakelight seems out of my skill set. Anyone?
My problem is one wire to rear brakelight switch is hot (12v in) but other wire is reading 7v.
Brakelight is on even if both wires are disconnected. That would seem front brake switch but its not.
The stoplight switch wire that should be zero volts till switch energizes it ,..is R/BE which goes to abs diode pack so I bought new one. No difference.
I hate to admit defeat but have disassembled a good deal of bike with no wire chafe or issues. Before I give hard earned money to shop...any suggestions? Can speed sensor or abs cause this? Sure would like to stumble across problem.
The power plug to abs control module DOES turn off the power to 7v side of rear switch so could control module have went bad? Can I disable entire abs and take it out of equation? I have wrenched a lot of years but brakelight seems out of my skill set. Anyone?
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