96 build options
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 963
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From: Displaced hillbilly
96 build options
I’m curious to hear some thoughts on this scenario.
say you had a 96 with crank issues and possibly transmission issues as well, but you had a limited budget.
would you
A: bulletproof the bottom end with a pinned and welded crank, bore out cylinders to 107” and install a DD7 to address the transmission issues and gear ratios
or
B: bulletproof bottom end with pinned & welded crank, bore to 117” and replace all the items that needs to go with that large a bore and just rebuild the stock transmission.
say you had a 96 with crank issues and possibly transmission issues as well, but you had a limited budget.
would you
A: bulletproof the bottom end with a pinned and welded crank, bore out cylinders to 107” and install a DD7 to address the transmission issues and gear ratios
or
B: bulletproof bottom end with pinned & welded crank, bore to 117” and replace all the items that needs to go with that large a bore and just rebuild the stock transmission.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,006
Likes: 11,009
From: San Diego, CA
I'd go A-1 and B-2....
Take care of the crank (Dark Horse comes to mind), bore to a 103 and rebuild the stock transmission... (I'm a little leery of going to 107" from 96" barrels, but I tend to be cautious... same reason I took my 88" to 95" instead of 98")
You can add a few primary bits for the added power if you like, such as heavier clutch spring and/or an AIM variable pressure plate. If it's gearing you want to change, you can also do that in the primary, with the engine sprocket or clutch basket teeth changes...
FWIW...
I have a 124" S&S at 135 HP & 151 TQ going through the stock clutch/basket and OEM trans. I have a stiffer clutch spring with the AIM variable pressure plate and a solid engine sprocket (32 teeth, OEM is 34 teeth). I am not one who "beats" on my bikes and everything is holding up very well...
Good luck with your build...
Take care of the crank (Dark Horse comes to mind), bore to a 103 and rebuild the stock transmission... (I'm a little leery of going to 107" from 96" barrels, but I tend to be cautious... same reason I took my 88" to 95" instead of 98")
You can add a few primary bits for the added power if you like, such as heavier clutch spring and/or an AIM variable pressure plate. If it's gearing you want to change, you can also do that in the primary, with the engine sprocket or clutch basket teeth changes...
FWIW...
I have a 124" S&S at 135 HP & 151 TQ going through the stock clutch/basket and OEM trans. I have a stiffer clutch spring with the AIM variable pressure plate and a solid engine sprocket (32 teeth, OEM is 34 teeth). I am not one who "beats" on my bikes and everything is holding up very well...
Good luck with your build...
I was thinking the same thing. "Limited budget" and "bulletproof" do not belong in the same sentence.
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 963
Likes: 145
From: Displaced hillbilly
limited in the fact that a 117 build will require more items and have costs associated with it than the 107 would, there by eating away at the funds for the DD7.
Ride safe!
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,090
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From: Maine
I guess it comes down to the actual budget and what you really want.
If I were all the way down to the replacing the crank (best option) then I would go all in on a 117" but that will also require larger throttle body and injectors with head work to get the most out of it.
Otherwise I would go the "take-off" route and be in it for less money.
Good Luck!
If I were all the way down to the replacing the crank (best option) then I would go all in on a 117" but that will also require larger throttle body and injectors with head work to get the most out of it.
Otherwise I would go the "take-off" route and be in it for less money.
Good Luck!
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