Got the wires repaired and the new TGS pulled through the bars. I learned that it is much easier if you slice open the protective sheathing on the TGS and tape in the RHCM wires so that youre only pulling 1 set. It didnt take near the strength to pull them through and I'm sure it didnt do near the damage. After clearing all of the silly codes that pop up due to unplugging connectors and having LED turn signals I took it for a short ride to fill up at the gas station.

I noticed that I have a pretty obvious flat spot up until 2500 rpm or more, then the cam kicks in and I feel the power. Maybe the ECM needs to learn more over a longer ride or maybe it is my RCX 2-1-2 head pipe and TAB slip ons that is causing it. Im going to give it some ride time and maybe some Autotune sessions. If that doesnt help much then I may look at a nice 2 into 1 like the Bassani Road Rage 3.

 

Many cams and their subsequent tunes can vary widely due to the exhaust used....

Since you got your parts/tune from FuelMoto, I would suggest you take it for a ride, and run a data log. Then send the data log to FuelMoto with a description of your issue. They will review the data log session, and make changes to the tune, based on what they see.

I have done this with them once, and the tune was much better after they adjusted it for my bike....

 

Thanks for the advice, that sounds like a good idea. If playing with the tune solves the flat spot then I'd rather not spend $1200 right now.

I love how the exhaust sounds with the cam. It gave it more depth and volume.

 

After a ride this evening I found a pretty bad oil leak from my pushrod tubes, not quite sure which ones. I had a hell of a time getting the clips in initially and had to borrow a tool from a buddy. I can barely compress the collars with my fingers now, if at all.

I ordered the Motion Pro pushrod tool and I'll check to see if I cut any O-rings. Gotta love the learning curves on new projects

 

I recently had the same problem. I had removed the pushrod tubes on my '03 for about the 5th time (all for various reasons) in 3 years. They are stiff/tight to manipulate, but never had any leakage...

Took it for a test drive and it was like Niagara Falls with oil coming out of the pushrod tubes... I did notice I struggled a bit more with this P/R tube install than the others. I believe, on close inspection, that the top o-rings weren't set in properly, which led to the struggle/fiasco... I got a little careless and was in a hurry...

Took them apart, used new o-rings (I was still using the originals), put them back together carefully, and all is good....

I have the Motion Pro pushrod tool, and used it this time. I can usually get by with just a screwdriver ....

 

In my opinion, that tool is a waste of money. You have to ensure that the push rod tube is correctly seated in the head and not getting hung up on the o-ring. Once it's seated correctly, you can use a flat tip screw driver to push down on the push rod to get the clip in. If it doesn't go in with minimal effort, it's not seated and will leak.

 

I appreciate your input. I read a lot of positive and negative reviews.

When I first installed my pushrod tubes I wasnt able to compress the collar nearly as easily as I could while removing them. I removed them by just pushing down with my fingers, no way in hell I could do it without borrow a tool from a buddy and managing to scratch them anyway because I had to push down so hard.

I replaced them with black powdercoated ones from D-Tech coatings, they looked identical.

I understand that they are probably tighter now because they arent seated correctly, but theres no way that I can get the collar pushed down far enough to get a screwdriver in to pry the clip out. And if I did, I would probably scratch the hell out of the powdercoat. Im hoping this tool will at least help for removal.

Could I have assembled the tubes in a way that didnt allow the collar to move like it needs to? Funny things happen when you drink beer and work on stuff by yourself.