I have a 1999 fuel injected Road King and am constantly having problems with the idle speeds.I am going to replace the engine temperature sensor and would like to know if I have to remove the fuel tank to replace it and how hard is it to get to?

 

Doing this requires that you at least take the tank loose and raise it up. The gas fittings also must be removed (be careful of the gas spillage), and the coil should be moved as well. The sensor is removed with a deep socket. Should be no more than a 30 minute job.
Good luck

 

OK -- I just did this on my '02 Ultra. It was a 5 minute job of removinf horn, disconecting the plug and using a deep 3/4" socket to remove and replace the sensor. There were no clearance issues and nothing to move out of the way but the horn. I know your's is a '99, so if the location is the same you're golden. -Tom

 

Ditto on just removing the horn. It's a very straight-forward job. What makes you think it's the temp sensor that's the problem?
Uncle Peepers

 

I have been having this problem for a couple of monthes.I set the idle and then after a couple of days,either the hot idle starts running very fast or the cold idle starts running so slow the bike shakes.I have had a local shop set it and it runs great for about a week then starts acting up.This is my daily driver and the bike has about 37,000 miles on it.Also,I live in Phoenix and the heat is a problem.I've read a couple of posts here and some of the members say this has helped.

 

bobalou1999, when you find out what your idle problem is please let me know. After 14+ months of taking mine back to the dealer it still will not idle the same all the time. I,m about to put a bounty on mine for the first person that can fix it where it will idle the same 2 days in a row.. ANT TAKERS???????@ 2 sets induction module seals. sert,stage1, dino run,air idle motor and still not fixed.It idles perfectly when cold, but when it,s warm, all bets are off.

 

Have you tried using the voltage method to set the idle? If not, or if you're not familiar with it,let me know and I'll share it. Also. on my 2000, even after using the above method, I hadthe same symptoms you describe, only mine got progressively worse. I finally replaced the TPS and that fixed it.

Uncle Peepers

 

Sounds like it's in a different location on the Twinkie. For the Evo, it's in the center of the front head, requiring the above.

 

I have been having the same problem with my 2010 Ultra. I just recently swapped out my Temp Sensor along with the Map Sensor. Hopefully it fixes it. Only acts up when the motor is warm.

 

Not trying to hi-jack this thread but I thought that I hop in and make a few comments.


I bought mu 2000 Ultra FLHTCUI(T/C88) new.
I started and ran perfect for years, even after I beefed it up with a 95" Big Bore Kit and had the module "flashed" to a Stage II.


At about 73,000 or so miles, the bike began "stalling out"(usually at low speeds) but would usually quickly re-start. This seemed to get progressively worse, so I took it to the shop and it turned out to be a defective "kill switch".


Once I had that replaced, I noticed that the engine seemed to have a hard time running a steady RPM, especially between 2,000 to 3,000 RPMS.


After replacing the spark plugs, plug wires, air cleaner, experimenting with fuel additives, etc., I replaced the TPS--still had the erratic RPM's issue.


I thought OK, time for intake seals--Still erratic RPM's issue.


SO--I gave in and took it to a local indy who had been trained on the MM EFI system.


The bike would NOT "code" so he had no place to really start looking for the problem.
He called me and asked if I would authorize the cost of the Engine Temperature Switch so I said YES.
Once that was installed, the bike "coded", but the bad news was that it indicated a bad EFI module.
THe worse part was that no OEM units were available, so we went with an "aftermarket" model and the bike did run much better, BUT, it never started as quickly as it had for 12+ years that I had owned it.


The indy explained to me, that once you hit the start button, the EFI module starts processing nearly 200 calculations/adjustments and if there's an error, it may effect the way your bike starts, idles, etc., etc.


I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but the MM EFI system seems to be both inadequate and obsolete.


The guy who bought my bike converted it to another system and had some head work done and he was very pleased with it.


Good luck with your bike.