I have not but I can tell mines on the way to failure after 4500 miles. It doesn't work all the time so I guess I will eventually.

 

Amen on the $8 switch buttons. I bought polished hand controls (a whole different story) and being semi-mechanical went at it. I bought the HD chrome button kit to finish out the swap.

INSTALL #1, Left Grip.
While everything was a tight fit for my short fat fingers, I did manage to get every thing back together, with the new chrome covers on the "rocker-type" switches. Then came time to push on the last two. What a pain in the A$$! When I finally started to do the radio switch - would you believe the stem on the switch was 180 degrees off from where it should be?! I could not believe it. I looked at the whole on the button and that stem a dozen times before I finally realized whoever made the switch put the stem in the housing 180 off. You could see the original black button had been drilled out to make it work instead of putting the right one on. I took it to the dealer to replace it since it was obviously a factory screw up and its' been on order for more than 2 weeks!

INSTALL #2, Right Grip and M/C.
Getting everything together with the throttle cables was interesting, but finally got that in although I think I still have a little too much slack (need to dig into the service manual to see how to get some of that out). Same song, second verse when it came to the switch caps. The amount of pressure required to put them on so they don't "wiggle" on the stem is about 3 in/lb's more than are required to break the switch. I now have a cruise switch that just flops back and forth. Also on order with my local dealer. He has THAT one (of course, since I'll have to pay to have that fixed). At any rate, I figure between them having to change the one under warranty on the left and me paying to replace the one on the right, I'll make them figure out how to put them on securely.

The only thing I can think of is that the chroming of the plastic caps gets down in the pilot hole and you have to file/drill it out to make fit. Only problem is, how do you drill a "D" shaped hole?..argh

wick

 

Carefull, Carefull when putting all those wire through the clamp for the clutch assembly. I have no cut ot and the wire can get pinched...from the vibration they wear through and short out. It happened to me with the PTT switch.... Suggest working the wires flat in the conduit and then clamping down the clutch assemble. Just a suggestion. [sm=yikesomg.gif]

 

nope, i still have the stock grips.

oh wait, this isn't the sporty forum...

 

Do they still give you your money back on ext waranty if not used?

 

PS1222,

Good news - here is the scoop onextended waranty REFUNDS:

https://www.hdforums.com/m_2084268/tm.htm

 

My rear switch has gone out, I have the bike in "Street Glide" mode for now so I am just going to order a switch and do it myself so it is all set when I put the tour pack back on... Well if I put the tour pack back on

 

Holy Buckwheet HD Jeff - how do you ride in those temps - 104F???

 

I thought I had read through all of the posts on the volume control replacement, but....I don't remember reading bout the plastic chrome audio button being so hard to get on and the post being 180 out.....

Just replaced mine last night and sure enough.... I puzzled over the 180 out for quite awhile and finally just forced on the button.... Sure wished I'd I read back through this and saved 30 min of head scratching....

Grrrrrrr

However I can now Get er done on the left controls..... ;-)

 

My volume button was very loose -&nbsp\\; yes, a pain to push on.&nbsp\\; You would think a better solution would be a button with a set screw.&nbsp\\; As others, just forced it on.&nbsp\\; Seems okay.&nbsp\\; Don't like doing that especially since there are funtions when you push that button.