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I recently acquired a 2013 Ultra Limited with 20K on the odometer. As with all new-to-me vehicles, I have done a refresh of all of the fluids. Whilst I had to derby cover off for the primary oil change I decided to also adjust the clutch.
When I follow the method of lightly screwing the actuator in until it just touches the clutch mechanism, and then backing out half a turn, I cannot take up the slack in the clutch cable so that the clutch lever moves back towards the bars. I had to have the actuator just touching the inner clutch mechanism and then adjust the clutch cable slack from that point.
The clutch shifts fine, but I feel something's not quite right in the way the official adjustment process didn't work for me. Is my clutch cable stretched beyond service limits? Are my clutch plates worn out? Something else not right?
Im going to ask a dumb question, did you free up the clutch cable from the barrel adjuster (in the cable) before adjusting clutch?
Not a dumb question at all, a really good one in fact.
Yes, I did create a ton of slack in the barrel adjuster before making any adjustments at the primary. Should have included that info in my post, as that is a big part of this adjustment.
I have found over many adjustments on many bikes, that the service manual recommendation as to number of turns out on the adjusting screw is just that---a recommendation. As a general rule, the more turns out, the sooner the clutch will disengage. Hence: more turns out, less slack. I wouldn't go nuts on it, but a half turn more wouldn't hurt.
No problem, I hope this can help you. I bought a 2011 FLHTK in early 2019 and ran into a situation similar to what you described. I also wanted to adjust the clutch and do other maintenance since the bike was "new" to me. This process was the answer for me.
It happened to me, might be happening to you. My adjuster screw had a bur or rough spot that I mistakenly believed was the resistance from touching the release pin. I finally used a wrench and turned the adjustment screw in until it stopped, and back out several times. The rough spot was now gone and I found the actual point of contact by feel and backed out about 3/4 of a turn and all was well.
It happened to me, might be happening to you. My adjuster screw had a bur or rough spot that I mistakenly believed was the resistance from touching the release pin. I finally used a wrench and turned the adjustment screw in until it stopped, and back out several times. The rough spot was now gone and I found the actual point of contact by feel and backed out about 3/4 of a turn and all was well.
Yeah, same here. Cable had not been touched in 19 years. Trying to adjust the " turn buckle" it started out hard. Hit it with PB Blaster and it soaked for a while. Started to turn ok then hit likely your same snag. Found the thread burr, filed it and the adjuster went back up. However my prime adjusting point leaving 1/16th to 1/8th slack at the lever was right on the break point on the male threads from the top side. I now have one on order due in tomorrow or Fri. While having to get into the clutch cover, the stock exhaust had to come off. Then I find 3 cracks in my 2nd crossover pipe. Then while brazing those closed, acetylene runs out, done with 2 of 3 and oxygen runs out. Hell I finally mowed the yard so I didn't get the shotgun and my 03 FLHRCI out of my misery. Looking forward to next week maybe I get to ride then
It happened to me, might be happening to you. My adjuster screw had a bur or rough spot that I mistakenly believed was the resistance from touching the release pin. I finally used a wrench and turned the adjustment screw in until it stopped, and back out several times. The rough spot was now gone and I found the actual point of contact by feel and backed out about 3/4 of a turn and all was well.
I'm thinking the alternate technique can help in case there is a rough spot on my adjuster as well.
Originally Posted by dfixit1
Yeah, same here. Cable had not been touched in 19 years. Trying to adjust the " turn buckle" it started out hard. Hit it with PB Blaster and it soaked for a while. Started to turn ok then hit likely your same snag. Found the thread burr, filed it and the adjuster went back up. However my prime adjusting point leaving 1/16th to 1/8th slack at the lever was right on the break point on the male threads from the top side. I now have one on order due in tomorrow or Fri. While having to get into the clutch cover, the stock exhaust had to come off. Then I find 3 cracks in my 2nd crossover pipe. Then while brazing those closed, acetylene runs out, done with 2 of 3 and oxygen runs out. Hell I finally mowed the yard so I didn't get the shotgun and my 03 FLHRCI out of my misery. Looking forward to next week maybe I get to ride then
Sounds like you were having one of those days.
I like your avatar. My MSF program coordinator used to joke about students complaining about their bikes during class, when in fact the only problem with the bike was the loose nut attached to the handlebars.
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