Primary noise issue
Variance was nearly the same but with a hair less slack this time on the loose stretch of chain.
@Dano523 , I've moved your post over to the thread. Had to do it manually, which is why it's here under my name.
Dano523's words:
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On that much varance in primary chain free play,
With primary cover off, remove clutch, put trans in to 3rd gear, spin the rear tire that will spin the inner clutch hub, and see if the stationary outer basket front edge is dipping in and out badly as inner hub is spinning.
If yes with stationary outer basket edge dipping in and out badly then maybe clutch basket or bearing is short,
next look at inner hub while spinning (use dial indicator is needed, and it it no running true to begin with, pull clutch basket, and check the start spines of the inner hub back side, to make sure none are cracked,
[img]https://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/touring-models/539920d1501528163-damaged-clutch-hub-splines-secompensator030110__01.jpg
and them check run out of trans/clutch input shaft, and may as well check run out of engine shaft, since will have to remove comp to get the clutch basket out in the first place.
Hence the deal with the clutch basket and inner hub, is the inner hub should be running true with the trans input shaft that should be straight,and the bearing can go south, or bearing socket can be slightly peen so the outer basket is not running tram with the inner hub on the bearing. Basket bearing (9) is not hard to replace if it alone is the problem, but some times the bottom of basket bearing socket can be peen, so bearing is not seated true with channel.
Not the end of the world is not too bad, since can lathe the socket bottom for the bearing to get the bottom of channel true again, install the bearing to bottom of channel, then use shim before you install C clip, to hold the bearing to bottom of channel, so outer basket is running true with ID of bearing/the the inner hub.

IF channel is badly peened to hell for bearing in outer hub, no way to keep bearing tram with OD outer basket to begin with, then new outer basket will be needed to solve the problem.
Dano523's words:
-----------------------
On that much varance in primary chain free play,
With primary cover off, remove clutch, put trans in to 3rd gear, spin the rear tire that will spin the inner clutch hub, and see if the stationary outer basket front edge is dipping in and out badly as inner hub is spinning.
If yes with stationary outer basket edge dipping in and out badly then maybe clutch basket or bearing is short,
next look at inner hub while spinning (use dial indicator is needed, and it it no running true to begin with, pull clutch basket, and check the start spines of the inner hub back side, to make sure none are cracked,
[img]https://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/touring-models/539920d1501528163-damaged-clutch-hub-splines-secompensator030110__01.jpg
and them check run out of trans/clutch input shaft, and may as well check run out of engine shaft, since will have to remove comp to get the clutch basket out in the first place.
Hence the deal with the clutch basket and inner hub, is the inner hub should be running true with the trans input shaft that should be straight,and the bearing can go south, or bearing socket can be slightly peen so the outer basket is not running tram with the inner hub on the bearing. Basket bearing (9) is not hard to replace if it alone is the problem, but some times the bottom of basket bearing socket can be peen, so bearing is not seated true with channel.
Not the end of the world is not too bad, since can lathe the socket bottom for the bearing to get the bottom of channel true again, install the bearing to bottom of channel, then use shim before you install C clip, to hold the bearing to bottom of channel, so outer basket is running true with ID of bearing/the the inner hub.

IF channel is badly peened to hell for bearing in outer hub, no way to keep bearing tram with OD outer basket to begin with, then new outer basket will be needed to solve the problem.
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