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What is really cold temps? 30-40 degrees, shouldn't make a difference. On that lines, what about poorly adjsuted clutch dragging on start? I can't remember if he said he looked in primary. With 6 speeds you can change starters really easy, and not open the primary. Is everything tight? There was a guy with the old style who didn't bend the tab back on the jack shaft. 6 speeds don't have that. But pointing out weird stuff happens.
Is it mechanical noise from something not meshing, is it kickback from a week battery or weak starter clutch? Though it sounds like he has dealt with last two. I have no clue what would cause misalignment in primary. Maybe google that a bit, in free time.
If starting in really cold temps, try an experiment, put a heater on it, just to see. I don't ride harleys below 30 much due to by then there is salt. 4 wheelers and sleds start. But throw a heater on the 4 wheeler for 2 minutes, and you would be surprised how easier it starts.
You initial thought on the noise was that the bendix teeth were still contacting the ring gear after the engine starts and the starter button is released. I suspect that is correct, although you likely need to remove the outer primary to confirm that. Some visual, and at some point removing the clutch hub to inspect for worn or damaged parts. If you haven't already, you could drain the primary oil and check for metal fragments attached to the magnetic drain plug, which you would need to do if you decide to remove the outer cover.
Since the ring gear is attached to the clutch basket, I'd also check the hub bearing for an slack. And look closely at the inner primary behind and around the ring gear for any contact marks. If there are marks, that should serve as a hint that something is going on there. There have been some cases where the clutch hub splines have cracked and broken, allowing the assembly to move.
It is curious that the original starter doesn't make the noise, while both orthers do. No explanation for that other than tolerances or incorrect assembly.
Paul
I pulled the new starter off last night, it is damaging the teeth now that its got some miles on it. I wasnt where I could put the new one on at the time but I noticed the noise is getting worse. The old one will work, but even though its rebuilt, the fields are getting a bit weak so it doesnt spin over as fast.
Is the issue the cheap Chinese starters, I lost track. I would put an all ballz starter clutch in stock. But I thought you did that. If still an issue, something I'm primary is my guess.
FYI if you buy after market clutch hub or basket,I forget terminology. It will come with bearing.
That's not ideal, but not that bad. However, that is a fraction of the teeth involved.
If it were mine, I'd drain the primary oil and remove the outer cover and see how things look inside. And then check for other damage and wear marks that might give hints of what is happening.
Is there runout on the ring gear, or is the clutch hub moving for some reason?
If you can't return either new starter, you might check if a new field will fit the original starter. Have you double checked the new starter part numbers to make sure they are spec'd for your bike? Hard to believe 2 different companies could mess that up, but something isn't right. Any chance your bike doesn't have the original engine? Are the new and old starters the same length, especially from the mounting boss to the far end that goes inside the primary? Sounds like even a 16th of an inch could make the difference. Do the starter gears retract into the housing just as far as the factory starter does? There is a ball bearing, I believe at the starter motor end of the starter drive. If both new starters have the same size too big a ball bearing that might cause your problem, not letting the starter gear retract as far as is needed.
That's not ideal, but not that bad. However, that is a fraction of the teeth involved.
If it were mine, I'd drain the primary oil and remove the outer cover and see how things look inside. And then check for other damage and wear marks that might give hints of what is happening.
Is there runout on the ring gear, or is the clutch hub moving for some reason?
Paul
No reason there should be anything moving and the original starter didn't do that.
For the other questions about oil, the bike is storedin a heated garage and still does it. The viscosoity is the same no matter which starter I put on, I didn't change the oil lol.
If you can't return either new starter, you might check if a new field will fit the original starter. Have you double checked the new starter part numbers to make sure they are spec'd for your bike? Hard to believe 2 different companies could mess that up, but something isn't right. Any chance your bike doesn't have the original engine? Are the new and old starters the same length, especially from the mounting boss to the far end that goes inside the primary? Sounds like even a 16th of an inch could make the difference. Do the starter gears retract into the housing just as far as the factory starter does? There is a ball bearing, I believe at the starter motor end of the starter drive. If both new starters have the same size too big a ball bearing that might cause your problem, not letting the starter gear retract as far as is needed.
Correct starter for my year - many years actually. Harley doesn't use many different starters. Same length, the gear doesn't constantly rub the gear, just for a second. Hard to believe I got the two starters that had the wrong bearing from two different companies but who knows.
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