I'll preface this by saying this isn't a compensator issue, otherwise there will be 10 replies stating just that.

I'd been having some slow starting issues on my '14 UL. I had replaced the battery (Duracell gray case) less than a year ago and a recent test showed it was fine, but the engine would essentially stop on the first compression stroke while starting, then finally fire off after a second, and it was getting worse. I ride all year, and when the temps got much below freezing and the bike sat outside at work, I was having to jump it. I had the battery tested again - good. I cleaned both ends of the battery cables and even tried supplementing them with jumper cables to the starter bolt and engine case just to see if I had a bad cable - no change.
My local indy suggested the starter may be getting weak (50,000 miles on the bike) so I purchased an Amazon one for around $200. When I installed it, the engine did turn over a bit faster, but once the bendix retracted there was a horrible grinding noise like the bendix wasn't retracting fast enough and was dragging on the clutch hub teeth. I had the indy listen to it and they claimed the cheap starter was the issue, so I took it back off and reinstalled the (now rebuilt) original starter. Noise gone, still slow starting so I ponied up $500 for an All ***** from the indy. Funny enough, the All ***** is IDENTICAL to the Amazon one, the QC sticker is even in the same place. I installed it and - yup - still making the exact same horrible noise reminiscent of a badly shimmed Chevy 350 starter as the engine starts and the bendix retracts. I had the indy listen to it and he said the starter needed to break in. This was 400 miles ago on a daily driver, it's still doing it.
In the meantime, I took the battery out and left it outside in the cold overnight, then took it to the battery place for a third testing. It tested good on their newer tester, but after some pursuading, they agreed to test it further, I'd have to leave it with them. A call that afternoon revealed it failed an old-school test and I got a replacement battery.

I'll put the old starter back on and eliminate the grinding, but I'm trying to figure out what's going on here. These starters fit into a tight hole with an o-ring so there isn't much room at all for misalignment. I did loosen and retighten this newer one a few times, trying to see if there was just enough movement to make it stop, but there is zero change. I have tried with and without the pointless little alignment sleeves the factory uses over the bolts, no difference. I say pointless, because even on the stock starter, they are loose in the holes. Regardless, they are currently installed with the All ***** starter. I did take it off to see how much damage is being done to the clutch hub gear, and, while there is a little noticable wear from this, it's not horrible. I will change the primary fluid again when I put the old starter back on to eliminate any wear debris.

I'm really hoping someone has run into this before and can comment. It's stumping me.

 

How about summary of where you are at?

Turns over won't start, you been trying different starter combinations?

Does it have spark and fuel?

Never heard of starter breaking in.

Future I would have just rebuilt starter clutch.

Since you got year old goofy battery, I would try jump pack or starter on high to see if any difference.

 

You wrote you had to jump to start when cold. Will it jump start now? If so, get rid of the goofy battery.

 

What is your replacement battery? Does it have the specified CCA for your bike? What is an old school test?

 

What is the amp draw when cranking cold? I believe this emgine has compression releases. So are they working?

Paul

 

New battery is the same Duracell gray case, as it was a warranty swap. It has a higher CCA rating than the factory battery. The old school test is on a test stand with a carbon pile tester with a rudimentary computer, like the ones that the part stores used to use 'back in the day'.

 

Comp releases are warking, I unplugged them and there is a difference - not as much as I would have thought, but I could tell a difference when I unplugged them one at a time and cranked.

 

Bike runs, battery has been replaced. I've never heard of a starter breaking in either, I think the indy shop has seen me for the last time.

I'm just trying to find out if anyone has had the grinding issue on their HD before.

 

It is hard to say over the internet, When I have experience grinding noise or kickback, it was older starter clutch and would show up when I had a weak battery. I've never experienced any other issues with gears, to say.

I wonder if they were blowing you off to get you out of their shop, cause they didn't know what to do. Either way, I wouldn't go back.

Myself, I'd still put a jump pack or charger on high and see it sounds different. While not a harley man for everything, I get results from their battery. Also hear good things anout optima. But it seems in these threads, guys are running so goofy battery. Free and easy to try. Could maybe reveal a dirty loose connection, but more likely that battery, if it does make a difference.

 

First I think you need to break this down without the story. always state year and mileage, model. Simple symptom, not a big long story, and what you did. I am saying this for people reading this too.


A crazy thing I might try, is disconnecting battery, and see if fires fine. That could reveal a draw. See what happens, put it on a charger at home, and see if makes a difference, that could reveal something in the charging system. Is it doing this every time? If not, could be when battery is weak.


Also what are cold temps?


What I think about, is you jumped it at work, and started. These gridning noises, I can't tell from here, if low voltage, or mechanical issue.