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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 12:23 PM
  #11  
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im
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Based on the current information..
2007 Electra Glide

You report:
B1005- Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open
"fuel gauge being inaccurate"
"Fuel pump kicks on I can hear it make the healthy little whine, then it kicks off"
"throttle on this bike was VERY stiff when I bought it. It had no spring back. I had to lube the cables very generously to get it back to normal. I mean it was sticking bad."

If the throttle cables stuck that bad then did anybody address the throttle body?
Keep in mind there would be a push and a pull cable and both need to be smooth.
Reason: The throttle body could have a stuck idle control or lever that makes starting rather difficult.

Has anybody removed the fuel tank access panel to review internal fuel lines and fuel pump assembly.
Reason: If the cables were stuck then perhaps the storage was not ideal and the tank internals are corroded, full of debris or there is a piece of tank liner blocking fuel inlet.
*Additionally some models have an accordion looking fuel line that can get pin holes and cause a loss of pressure.
The loss of fuel pressure is more severe when tank is below the half mark since fuel line with pin holes will be above or near fuel level.


 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 12:26 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by im
Based on the current information..
2007 Electra Glide

You report:
B1005- Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open
"fuel gauge being inaccurate"
"Fuel pump kicks on I can hear it make the healthy little whine, then it kicks off"
"throttle on this bike was VERY stiff when I bought it. It had no spring back. I had to lube the cables very generously to get it back to normal. I mean it was sticking bad."

If the throttle cables stuck that bad then did anybody address the throttle body?
Keep in mind there would be a push and a pull cable and both need to be smooth.
Reason: The throttle body could have a stuck idle control or lever that makes starting rather difficult.

Has anybody removed the fuel tank access panel to review internal fuel lines and fuel pump assembly.
Reason: If the cables were stuck then perhaps the storage was not ideal and the tank internals are corroded, full of debris or there is a piece of tank liner blocking fuel inlet.
*Additionally some models have an accordion looking fuel line that can get pin holes and cause a loss of pressure.
The loss of fuel pressure is more severe when tank is below the half mark since fuel line with pin holes will be above or near fuel level.
throttle body is opening and closing properly. I’ve been in the tank it all looks good. No debris, clean fuel sock, no holes in any lines.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 12:26 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by krustuhfar
I have thought of ckp honestly. I just didn’t know there were any tests I could do to determine proper operation.
post #9 details how to check it. they are not that expensive so i always keep a spare on hand.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...on-sensor.html
 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 12:53 PM
  #14  
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If the battery was replaced by the PO, he/she could have replaced with a battery that didn't have the correct CCA.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 12:57 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Ghetto blaster
If the battery was replaced by the PO, he/she could have replaced with a battery that didn't have the correct CCA.
the battery is good.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 01:44 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by krustuhfar
I have thought of ckp honestly. I just didn’t know there were any tests I could do to determine proper operation.
That will throw a code. Had a few on here recently bad. If it's bad, you definitely won't get spark nor will fuel pump run after it gets about one complete revolution of reading when fuel pump runs continuously.

That socalled prime is most just a check. It does bring up pressure and probably starts about a second quicker with it.

If you have a sensitive ohm reader, it will show a high resistance.(1 megohm ) However most meters read OL or infinite. AC is 5-6 volts.

Code P0373 crankshaft position intermittent
P0374 not detected.

It's a cheap fix but running the wire can be a pain. Since it's not stopping on you, it's probably OK .. If you have an old fashing timing light. Clip that on when cranking. If it's flashing, it's not the CKP.

Properly checked is a AC reading thru it. Obviously, should not show open.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 5, 2024 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 06:51 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by KK0G
The very first thing I'd do is load test the battery, a weak battery will crank slower and could easily cause the problem you're having. Follow that up by checking the spark plugs, if it's been a while since they were replaced I'd just plan on replacing them.
Those are what people with no eletric ability suggest. I would change plugs for heck of it.


Turning over over and then the tuft, will become a back fire at some point I suspect. I wouldn't be surprised coil or CPK. You can check ac output of CPK, do it with plugs in or reading will be high. That year has a connector so real easy to replace and it is old. Checking connections on coil not awful, even replacing is not worse idea. I have had problems with coil at low rpms. Ohmed good.


Side note, do you ever stall when coasting to stop, or have RPM fluctate a little? Cleanning IAC can cause this my 2007 has problems. Behind air cleaner, is port about 11 oclock. Spray sensor cleaner in there while cycling kill switch, you will hear motor.

My wild guesses are fuel pressure or poor spark. It is going to get worse, until it doesn't start. If I was going to throw parts at it CPK, plugs and coil. I am not afraid to throw parts at it it is an old bike. I got my gas tank off on 2007, so I am replacing coil while it is easy.

 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 08:08 PM
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I'm quite surprised nobody has mentioned the cylinder head temperature sensor. This sensor triggers the cold start enrichment circuit in the ECM. Just a thought.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 08:25 PM
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Just by the sound of it, your issue seems nearly identical to what I went through on my '07.
A brand new battery provided quite a bit of help, but then I ended up rebuilding the primary.
There are tons of choices and combinations to sort through when undertaking this project, some dictated by availability, others by budget.

Luckily, I wasn't down for too long.
I went with:
Man-O-War compensator eliminator sprocket
OEM primary chain and Rev C (I think) Factory tensioner
I also upgraded to the 10 plate clutch kit from Energy One.
I forget which brand clutch basket I went with, but the teeth of the original were pretty worn so it also had to go.

From then on, it has started easily and without fail.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2024 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by seniorsuperglideE8
I'm quite surprised nobody has mentioned the cylinder head temperature sensor. This sensor triggers the cold start enrichment circuit in the ECM. Just a thought.
I tried that first on mine when it started acting up.
Now I have an extra sensor in the toolbox.
 
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