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Before I replaced the sensor, I had to roll the throttle forward quite a bit to cancel. Now, even 1/8" or maybe less cancels it. It's so sensitive that if you have the throttle open 1/4 of the way and set the cruise and let the sensor snap back to idle, it'll cancel the cruise control.
I know on the throttle grip on my ‘20 Heritage, all it takes is a fraction of an inch forward to disengage cruise control. I just got back from a ride and I tested it because of this thread. I’ll have to take my ‘14 UL for a ride and see how it responds. I don’t really remember how it responds because I’m old and scatterbrained.😵💫
Why did you change the throttle control? Your cruise control light is on all the time? Even when you turn the cruise off?
I had some issues with chafed wires on a set of bars I built, so I built an entirely separate set to replace them so I can dig into the other ones without the bike being down. Suggestion for all of you reading this: carefully use thin heat shrink on any internally wired handlebar, and use a dremel tool to de-bur every hole they pass through no matter who made the bars. Hard and expensive lesson to learn for me; fortunately it happened at home and I wasn't left stranded.
And no, the cruise light isn't on with the switch off, but of course I never turn it off either.
I had some issues with chafed wires on a set of bars I built, so I built an entirely separate set to replace them so I can dig into the other ones without the bike being down. Suggestion for all of you reading this: carefully use thin heat shrink on any internally wired handlebar, and use a dremel tool to de-bur every hole they pass through no matter who made the bars. Hard and expensive lesson to learn for me; fortunately it happened at home and I wasn't left stranded.
And no, the cruise light isn't on with the switch off, but of course I never turn it off either.
Gotcha. People drop their bars off at my house. I extend their wiring and install the controls on their new bars for them. I'm also an electrician by trade. Fishing wires is second nature for me. Sorry to here about your issues. Sounds like you could get by with using the Namz till you fix your other sensor. Sounds like the aftermarket hasn't nailed the twist grip sensor yet.
Gotcha. People drop their bars off at my house. I extend their wiring and install the controls on their new bars for them. I'm also an electrician by trade. Fishing wires is second nature for me. Sorry to here about your issues. Sounds like you could get by with using the Namz till you fix your other sensor. Sounds like the aftermarket hasn't nailed the twist grip sensor yet.
Yeah, I may return them.
I've been doing wiring for a long time, but I foolishly believed a youtube video I watched where the guy said he hadn't had any issues with chafing. I didn't have the same experience.
Just as an update, I reinstalled my H-D sensor yesterday. I'm going to return the Namz one. Their tech support suggested I send it back to them to test it. All symptoms resolved.
Just as an update, I reinstalled my H-D sensor yesterday. I'm going to return the Namz one. Their tech support suggested I send it back to them to test it. All symptoms resolved.
Well, I lied. All but one. Sometimes the CC doesn't want to engage after a shift, but if I wait a few more seconds and hit the button again, it does. I hope I didn't introduce another gremlin, but once it does work, if I cancel it and hit set or resume again, it comes right back, it's just a matter of getting it initially set after a shift.
Hello i have the same issue with the namz sensor. Seems like sensor does not stop on zero. Cruise light flashes as soon as it is in idle position. Everytime I apply throttle and leave off it changes the rear cylinder cutout. Did you end up sending yours back? Thanks, Brian
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