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Alright so I am in the process of replacing my primary chain and noticed excessive wear on my flywheel rotor for the stator and need to replace it. I was told by my local shop that it is hard to tell which charging system I have on my bike, so I should replace the whole charging system. I just don't have the money for that though. I have been looking around for a used rotor and found this one. It is identical to the one I have, saying "High Output" on it. From what info I have found, this must be for the upgraded 45 amp system instead of 38 amp. Is that correct? Do you all think I will be okay picking up this used one? If it's wrong, what do I risk messing up?? I also found an aftermarket one that says will work for both the 38 amp and 45 amp systems. Should I go that route instead? Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Photo of old stator would help, since unless face at washer is gouged to hell, spines stripped out, or magnets fallout out, may not need to be changed.
Hence above signs of rotor having these problems, means that either comp nut came loose, or comp springs went south, and comp was making a lot of noise from it pounding on the ramps.
Also, with photo and size of rotor, will give us an idea if still 38 amp OEM unit, or if upgraded to oem 45amp, or after market isntead.
And to add, if primary chain was really stretched way to long, then need to look at comp and even basket teeth, since it will have damage worn them as well, and may need to be replaced too.
I will get some pics of everything. Bike is torn down at my shop, which is not here at home. Rotor needs replaced for sure. There is gouging on the front and back plus the splines are worn. The spacer that came off was pancaked flat and so thin I could probably snap it if I tried. The chain is being replaced because it was stretched hard and about to come apart. The tensioner wasn't even tight for not sure how long. I bought the bike used and found all this out when I was replacing a leaky primary cover gasket. All the teeth seem to be in good shape.
As far as the compensator goes, is the spring pack in it supposed to move? Not like in and out, but be able to spin freely. The one off the bike is solid with no movement, but I picked up a used one just in case and the spring moves. I can spin it around in the cover. I had lots of metal debris in my primary, so I am wondering if some debris got in the compensator and is causing it to get held up. I have cleaned it up pretty good, minus sticking it in a parts washer.
Last edited by budha9109; Jun 7, 2024 at 07:18 PM.
If springs in the comp cone section are able to free spin, then they have take a set to being with.
You can play the large washer at bottom of stack or another bovine spring washer to add some tension back to the stack, so your comp is not ramp clanking in the end from not enough spring tension against them.
Trust is, was the comp nut loose, or was it the spring pack that lost its tension, and why the comp just ate the washer and peened the hell out of the face of the rotor being with. Also, with damage to the rotor, would dare to guess that the ramps on the comp are all worn out as well from all the clanking they where doing, and may just be time to replace the entire comp to start with.
Again, photos would to see what your up against to start with.
This is my 02 rotor old version single phase. I beleave 03 they came out with the 3 phase, that they most call high output, which probably looks like the pic you posted..
If you do get a comp make sure you get the right tooth count or the chain might not fit.
Yeah, I have the old style comp and rotor. I got some pics of the rotor, but forgot to take measurements.
I don't see any excessive wear on the comp itself. But I've never had one apart like this
And here is the nice primary chain about to let go 🤦🏻♂️
The comp bolt was not loose. At all. Had to heat up and use impact to get off. The big issue was the primary chain tensioner was loose, making the chain loose. I'm thinking the comp and rotor are all stock from 03. But then again, idk how to tell for sure.
To bad I ruined my 02 rotor, I thought the 99 was the same but it looks like this
I think the comp is usable.
What's the inside of the rotor look like?
Last edited by xcbullet; Jun 10, 2024 at 07:39 PM.
Rotor is fine, and if you know anyone with a lathe, can make a quick face pass to clean that up.
Spacer Washer needs to be replaced
And don't forget to use red loctite when you reinstall the comp nut.
Comp teeth on the sprockets are cooked, ramps and tip are worn down that was causing problems as well on comp over just worn washer, and will guess that the teeth on the clutch basket teeth are about the sames worn shape as well.
So on that note,
would be looking for good used Comp set with springs, but without rotor, and outer clutch basket if the teeth are the same as on the old comps teeth.
Note, check inner clutch hub back side spines for any damage, and if you do find that some of the spines at the end are cracked off, may as well just get entire clutch basket with bearing assembly. And if you need to replace the basket bearing since will bank that is got pounded to hell as well, may as just pick up complete clutch basket assembly from the start.
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03 Road King Stator Rotor Question
