2010 RK........no brake light!
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,459
Likes: 2,900
From: Oklahoma
Your bike is 14 years old and may have collected enough dirt and gunk to make the lever movement sluggish. Before tearing into the master cylinder I suggest removing the front lever and cleaning the pivot parts and the area in the lever mount where that plastic anti rattle thing (mounted on the lever) slides. That may be all that is needed to get the lever to spring forward into the full relaxed position.
IMPORTANT! Get the instructions for shimming the lever so you don't break off that little plastic tip on the brake light switch. I included my 08 service manual when I traded in my Road King and I don't remember the details of the shimming procedure. Since I broke my little button on my first lever removal, I never had to worry about it anyway, following my shade tree repair, shimming wasn't needed.
As a matter of technique, after using a spray cleaner, I use a product like Staples Electronic Duster to blow the parts clean and dry them. I can then tell if I need to repeat the cleaning process. The Duster is much like a can of WD40 but without the WD40, JUST the compressed gas. For small components it is much easier and more convenient than firing up the compressor to make some compressed air.
IMPORTANT! Get the instructions for shimming the lever so you don't break off that little plastic tip on the brake light switch. I included my 08 service manual when I traded in my Road King and I don't remember the details of the shimming procedure. Since I broke my little button on my first lever removal, I never had to worry about it anyway, following my shade tree repair, shimming wasn't needed.
As a matter of technique, after using a spray cleaner, I use a product like Staples Electronic Duster to blow the parts clean and dry them. I can then tell if I need to repeat the cleaning process. The Duster is much like a can of WD40 but without the WD40, JUST the compressed gas. For small components it is much easier and more convenient than firing up the compressor to make some compressed air.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 139
Likes: 69
From: 21014
Pull the taillight bulb and get a tester , 1pole is your running light and 1 is your brake light , turn it on and see which is your running light , next take a rubber band and lock you hand brake in and then test the other pole and see if you have power to the back , the brake switch in your handle bars is in is off and out is on when people break them the light usually stays on so I doubt it is there , most like a bulb , fuse , relay or pinched wire
This
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 419
Likes: 223
From: Florida
Your bike is 14 years old and may have collected enough dirt and gunk to make the lever movement sluggish. Before tearing into the master cylinder I suggest removing the front lever and cleaning the pivot parts and the area in the lever mount where that plastic anti rattle thing (mounted on the lever) slides. That may be all that is needed to get the lever to spring forward into the full relaxed position.
IMPORTANT! Get the instructions for shimming the lever so you don't break off that little plastic tip on the brake light switch. I included my 08 service manual when I traded in my Road King and I don't remember the details of the shimming procedure. Since I broke my little button on my first lever removal, I never had to worry about it anyway, following my shade tree repair, shimming wasn't needed.
As a matter of technique, after using a spray cleaner, I use a product like Staples Electronic Duster to blow the parts clean and dry them. I can then tell if I need to repeat the cleaning process. The Duster is much like a can of WD40 but without the WD40, JUST the compressed gas. For small components it is much easier and more convenient than firing up the compressor to make some compressed air.
IMPORTANT! Get the instructions for shimming the lever so you don't break off that little plastic tip on the brake light switch. I included my 08 service manual when I traded in my Road King and I don't remember the details of the shimming procedure. Since I broke my little button on my first lever removal, I never had to worry about it anyway, following my shade tree repair, shimming wasn't needed.
As a matter of technique, after using a spray cleaner, I use a product like Staples Electronic Duster to blow the parts clean and dry them. I can then tell if I need to repeat the cleaning process. The Duster is much like a can of WD40 but without the WD40, JUST the compressed gas. For small components it is much easier and more convenient than firing up the compressor to make some compressed air.
I was at a shop yesterday and bought the switch just in case.
But yeah.......I'm gonna remove the lever and see what condition the button is in.
Hopefully it's just grunged up and will free itself with a good cleaning and lube.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,459
Likes: 2,900
From: Oklahoma
Is that little "V" shaped spring still there to push the switch body against the wall of the housing? Without that, the switch moves away from the wall and the plunger won't go in far enough to turn off the brake light.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 164
Likes: 70
Now it has an aftermarket switch from Zodiac. With my vin number I had 2 recals on my bike, 1 was the brake switch and the other was something with "engine mount". Now I have seen that my side cases cannot be locked, I am missing the part that rotates and I also think that the egnitionswith is also broken ... but everything will be fine
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 419
Likes: 223
From: Florida
JOB DONE!!
And the problem had nothing to do with a bad switch, a relay, a fuse or a bulb!
Long story short.........the brake bracket and master cylinder housing had separated by about a 1/4 inch.
So the brake lever was not pressing against the brake switch button.
Loosened 3 bolts, removed the gap.....and all is well with the brake lights!
And I imagine some unscrupulous dealer/indy would've charged a hefty fee for a new switch and labor!!
Thank you to all of you that have now added to my trouble shooting skills.
It means a lot!
Ride safe!
And the problem had nothing to do with a bad switch, a relay, a fuse or a bulb!
Long story short.........the brake bracket and master cylinder housing had separated by about a 1/4 inch.
So the brake lever was not pressing against the brake switch button.
Loosened 3 bolts, removed the gap.....and all is well with the brake lights!
And I imagine some unscrupulous dealer/indy would've charged a hefty fee for a new switch and labor!!
Thank you to all of you that have now added to my trouble shooting skills.
It means a lot!
Ride safe!
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,683
Likes: 8,415
From: Utah
JOB DONE!!
And the problem had nothing to do with a bad switch, a relay, a fuse or a bulb!
Long story short.........the brake bracket and master cylinder housing had separated by about a 1/4 inch.
So the brake lever was not pressing against the brake switch button.
Loosened 3 bolts, removed the gap.....and all is well with the brake lights!
And I imagine some unscrupulous dealer/indy would've charged a hefty fee for a new switch and labor!!
Thank you to all of you that have now added to my trouble shooting skills.
It means a lot!
Ride safe!
And the problem had nothing to do with a bad switch, a relay, a fuse or a bulb!
Long story short.........the brake bracket and master cylinder housing had separated by about a 1/4 inch.
So the brake lever was not pressing against the brake switch button.
Loosened 3 bolts, removed the gap.....and all is well with the brake lights!
And I imagine some unscrupulous dealer/indy would've charged a hefty fee for a new switch and labor!!
Thank you to all of you that have now added to my trouble shooting skills.
It means a lot!
Ride safe!
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