Exhaust flange nuts?
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Elite HDF Member
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From: Ontario, Canada
Exhaust flange nuts?
The ones that hold the pipe to the heads came loose today on the rear cyclinder. Wondering if there is something besides blue loctite I should put on when retightening them and what should they be torques to?
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
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From:
RE: Exhaust flange nuts?
Anti-Seize on the the studs (according to Baggers Magazine and D&D)and 100-120 in-lbs torque. I believe the sequence is top nut first to 18 inch-lbs then the lower nut to 120in-lbs followed by finishing the top to 120in-lbs.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ontario, Canada
RE: Exhaust flange nuts?
Thanks.I know there are copper style crush seal/gaskets in there. Hope they will reseal. The bottom one is the one that came loose, fell off actually. Don't know if the top one is tight or not. I'll check today now that it has cooled and see what I'll see I guess.
Not looking forward to removing the pipe if it won't reseal.
Not looking forward to removing the pipe if it won't reseal.
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From: Bellevue, NE
RE: Exhaust flange nuts?
Just curious...did you retighten the nuts after a few hundred miles of running with the new pipes? They almost always need retightened at least once, then they'll stay put.
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Elite HDF Member
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From: Ontario, Canada
RE: Exhaust flange nuts?
ORIGINAL: stro1965
Just curious...did you retighten the nuts after a few hundred miles of running with the new pipes? They almost always need retightened at least once, then they'll stay put.
Just curious...did you retighten the nuts after a few hundred miles of running with the new pipes? They almost always need retightened at least once, then they'll stay put.
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4th Gear
Joined: Feb 2007
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RE: Exhaust flange nuts?
I've been fighting this for 2 months now.
NOantiseize..... unless you want them to vibrate loose even after retorquing several times, and yes with new gaskets.
The real cure > use the aircraft style flange nuts that are oblong in the threads and use a12 point socket.
NOantiseize..... unless you want them to vibrate loose even after retorquing several times, and yes with new gaskets.
The real cure > use the aircraft style flange nuts that are oblong in the threads and use a12 point socket.
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I’ve always followed the service manual torquing procedure for exhaust flange nuts. After riding, I let it completely cool then re-torque them. I do the same after the second ride.
With properly fitted, new gaskets and following this torquing procedure, I’ve never had a leak or had the nuts come loose.
It’s pointless to use lock-tight on the exhaust flange nuts. The exhaust ports get to a high enough temperature to break down the lock-tight. Follow the correct torquing procedure and you will be fine.
On my rear port and the front port on my wife’s bike, I’ve used a Dremel to cut away a little heat shield to allow access to the flange nuts with the heat shields in place. This way I can easily re-torque the flange nuts twice after installing the head pipe. You can’t see the heat shield modification without looking for it.
With properly fitted, new gaskets and following this torquing procedure, I’ve never had a leak or had the nuts come loose.
It’s pointless to use lock-tight on the exhaust flange nuts. The exhaust ports get to a high enough temperature to break down the lock-tight. Follow the correct torquing procedure and you will be fine.
On my rear port and the front port on my wife’s bike, I’ve used a Dremel to cut away a little heat shield to allow access to the flange nuts with the heat shields in place. This way I can easily re-torque the flange nuts twice after installing the head pipe. You can’t see the heat shield modification without looking for it.