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You would think but doen't a quality paint job usually start with a stripped shell?
Typically no, because most "painters" do not know how to properly condition and handle the metal before they prime it, and it is very difficult to duplicate the factory process of conditioning before their initial coat of primer. The factory top coat, or clear coat in most cases, may leave something to be desired as far as orange peel and gloss level, but the prep job and primer coats are the best you can get for corrosion protection.
the only time you would strip it is if there is a problem with the existing paint or your parts have been painted twice before, PPG recommends stripping before the 4th paint job, (factory paint + 2 re-paints) at least down to the factory paint. there is too much film build if you spray a 4th.
If you like that tint of blue, your painter could sand everything with 1500, spray a light coat of blue pearl over the existing white, do your graphics, stripes or whatever, and then clear it all, no need to re-spray the white, you have less film build and a better, longer lasting overall job in my opinion.
Vivid black is the cheapest of all harley colors. It makes no difference the original color. It ALL has to be sanded and primed. If a painter tells you otherwise, find a different painter.
There is absolutely no reason to prime over new, undamaged factory paint, unless you are going to block out some minor wavyness in the parts, or you sanded your parts with a brick and have to to fill your sanding scratches, or you're just a doorknob and sand through the clear and screw up the basecoat..... or you just don't know any better...
in the old days you would prime or use a sealer over a different color than what you were going to spray, to keep it from bleeding through, especially reds, that problem went away a long time ago...
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