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I've seen some posts showing how the toe gear shift causes wear and tear on boot leather.
I recently noticed this happening to my boot so I went to one of my local shops (Clark Rubber for Aussie members) and bought a metre length of foam tube, you know the type you push over roof bars on your vehicle.
I cut off a short piece and held it in place with a cable tie and now, no more leather wear. With a metre length I can do this 15 to 20 times before I need to buy another length.
How about turning the cowbell horn (literally) into a rear cylinder cooling device. Just swivel the opening to point forward and voila, rear jug scoop!
I wanted a longer toe shift peg on my 2015 Ultra. The stock peg seemed to be farther inboard than the one on my 2005, and I had to twist my foot inward and fumble with my toe to find it. Looked around on the internet and found a few vendors that sold a longer shift peg, but I'm a cheapskate and I refused to pay that much.
Bought a new shifter peg kit from HD which consisted of a rubber peg and a shoulder bolt. Only $10.00 USD. Set aside the shoulder bolt and bought a regular SS hex cap 4" X 24 thread bolt and some spacers that slip over the full length of the bolt. Had to shorten one of the rubber pegs by about 3/4" so enough of the threads on the bolt were exposed to allow it to go completely into the shift lever.
The spacers are there to take the place of the shoulder on the shoulder bolt. A shoulder bolt has a shaft with a larger diameter than the threads. You can screw it in until the shoulder bottoms out, then it stops and tightens up. Without the shoulder or the spacers the bolt would just keep screwing into the lever until ya ran out of threads and squished the rubber parts. It took a little cut 'n measuring to get the spacers the correct length, but I got it pretty close. Put a SS washer on the outside end of the outer rubber peg, slid both pegs over the bolt, slid the spacers over the bolt and inside the rubber pegs (tight fit, but they went in,) and put another washer on the end of the inner peg. Wrenched it into the shift lever and tightened it up with blue Loctite. I found that the threads came out about 1/4 " past the shift lever so I found a chrome nut and double-nutted it. It won't fall off.
I have about $15.00 total in the thing.
Makes it much more comfortable to step on it now. Looks pretty good, too.
How about turning the cowbell horn (literally) into a rear cylinder cooling device. Just swivel the opening to point forward and voila, rear jug scoop!
Here is a idea I had,
I want to catch the oil from the crank case by-pass instead of it going into the intake. I have seen may post here on using hoses and running them down to the ground. I just want to catch the oil I'm not worried about the gases or air going into the intake. Cars have uses aftermarket catch cans to trap the oil and run the by-pass air back into the intake, so I thought of this.
I uses some pipe fittings to make a cylinder so I could run a hose into it with some steel wool inside of it to trap the oil. I need to make it better but I'm getting there. I like it because you cant see what you stop from going in the engine!
Got the parts from Tractor Supply.
Last edited by dlesh0001; Feb 9, 2016 at 06:12 AM.
dlesh, temproarily put a whole single sheet of paper towel made to almost a baloon shape and rubber band it or zip tie it around the outlet of your breather, it should be loose and baggy instead of tight so the air can still flow. See if the inside of it gets oily after a week or two, that will tell you if you're catching the oil or not.
I tried something similar and in my experience most of the oil goes right through steel wool or mesh as a vapor.
How about turning the cowbell horn (literally) into a rear cylinder cooling device. Just swivel the opening to point forward and voila, rear jug scoop!
Rear cylinder cooling air scoop mod.
I like that idea. Any noticeable temperature difference?
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