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"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$

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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 10:58 AM
  #441  
vindex1963's Avatar
vindex1963
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From: Phoenix
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Originally Posted by Freebee
I can verify this works on a 2009 Ultra Classic, the connector has the same color codes. The install took less than 10min. including the test of the annoying siren !! Thanks for the DIY tip.
Best low$$$ idea out there!!! Mine works great. I just wish the sensitivity could be adjusted.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 03:28 PM
  #442  
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lorenc
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From: Grand Island, Nebraska
Default Tailbone pain?

I spend an incredible amount of time here reading the various threads and I want to thank you guys for: saving me money, costing me money, and tips on just about everything in between. Maybe now I can help someone else.

I couldnt ride more than an hour before I got "bikers Butt" and when I used an Airhawk, it would prolong it but not eliminate it. After a 550 mile ride, I was so sore I could hardly walk. Thats when I isolated the pain to my tailbone.

I'm kind of a do it myselfer so I researched a few webpages and decided what I needed was less padding where my tailbone hits. (I dont want to say "mines bigger than yours, but...). This site I found was invaluable in what I did to "cure" the problem. Link:http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/

I followed the instructions to take apart the stock seat. I just removed the staples from the riders area as now my wife could have the Airhawk. I found the seat has a very firm base to it with a light pad on top of it. Also it had a very shallow depression in the base where the tailbone would be located. (You cant feel it thru the top layer). I proceeded to get out a Dremel and just made the depression deeper. I added about 1/2 " in depth to it. The cut out area is about 2" wide and 4" long. Dont worry if it looks like a sharp edge in the foam because the top layer wll cover it and smooth it out. Stretch the cover back over it and staple to suit.

To give it a test, we rode 300 miles and i was very surprised that my tailbone didnt hurt. Now I need to put more staples in because I just put in minimal amount in case I had to dig deeper.

I should have taken pictures but the whole job was over in about 45 minutes. There wasnt enough time to think of it.

Total cost for this job was $3.49 for staples. You will want to use 1/4" staples to reassemble.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 10:47 PM
  #443  
Agnes the dog's Avatar
Agnes the dog
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 195
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From: I'm usually in the dog house
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Originally Posted by lorenc
I spend an incredible amount of time here reading the various threads and I want to thank you guys for: saving me money, costing me money, and tips on just about everything in between. Maybe now I can help someone else.

I couldnt ride more than an hour before I got "bikers Butt" and when I used an Airhawk, it would prolong it but not eliminate it. After a 550 mile ride, I was so sore I could hardly walk. Thats when I isolated the pain to my tailbone.

I'm kind of a do it myselfer so I researched a few webpages and decided what I needed was less padding where my tailbone hits. (I dont want to say "mines bigger than yours, but...). This site I found was invaluable in what I did to "cure" the problem. Link:http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/

I followed the instructions to take apart the stock seat. I just removed the staples from the riders area as now my wife could have the Airhawk. I found the seat has a very firm base to it with a light pad on top of it. Also it had a very shallow depression in the base where the tailbone would be located. (You cant feel it thru the top layer). I proceeded to get out a Dremel and just made the depression deeper. I added about 1/2 " in depth to it. The cut out area is about 2" wide and 4" long. Dont worry if it looks like a sharp edge in the foam because the top layer wll cover it and smooth it out. Stretch the cover back over it and staple to suit.

To give it a test, we rode 300 miles and i was very surprised that my tailbone didnt hurt. Now I need to put more staples in because I just put in minimal amount in case I had to dig deeper.

I should have taken pictures but the whole job was over in about 45 minutes. There wasnt enough time to think of it.

Total cost for this job was $3.49 for staples. You will want to use 1/4" staples to reassemble.
Nice website with a lot of info. Added to favorites. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #444  
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Scooter68
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 948
Likes: 1
From: Worth, Illinois
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Here's a little trick that helped me out in a bind. I had the problem of my brake lights being stuck on all the time due to the brake lever not making contact with the brake light switch. Take a small piece of rubber hose and super glue it to the part that makes contact to the switch and wham brake lights work perfectly.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 08:09 PM
  #445  
HB's Avatar
HB
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 530
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Default Gas door won't pop ? Here is a fix.

My gas door on the ultra got to where it would not pop up enough to get a hold on it. I kept messing with the little tab but it would not last long. So I dug through my spring box and came up with a chrome spring about en inch long. Cut it in half. Remove bolt that has the little tab under it and put the small bolt through the spring. Tighten the last coil against the bolt and reinsert it back in the console. I have done this on both bolts either side of the fuel cap works great. Now I don't have to get my knife out to get the door open. If you need pics just ask. Pretty easy fix. Cost was 0 for me. Maybe .30 at the hardware store and less than 5 minutes.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 04:34 PM
  #446  
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psychocircus
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Posts: 761
Likes: 9
From: lewisville, nc
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Originally Posted by moondog99
Tuco069 Look on the side and there is an alen screw on the side. Loosen it up pull out the antenna cut it and put it back in and tighten the alen screw back up.
im missing sumptin here i know, but when you cut the stock whips...whats the point of taking it apart? i m guessing there is a wire inside and a rod for support. you just cut the wire and wind the excess wire down the rod...
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 11:39 AM
  #447  
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matthewthamm
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 162
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From: Huntsville, Alabama
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HB, do you have a picture? That would be nice.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 06:05 PM
  #448  
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psychocircus
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Posts: 761
Likes: 9
From: lewisville, nc
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mine are one piece, no set screw..

tip from what one other said bout using a brass cup brush for the inside of the pipe ends... just did mine with some mothers mag polish on a powerball mini- shiny!
 
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 04:21 PM
  #449  
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Originally Posted by psychocircus
im missing sumptin here i know, but when you cut the stock whips...whats the point of taking it apart? i m guessing there is a wire inside and a rod for support. you just cut the wire and wind the excess wire down the rod...
Because you cut it from the bottom so the little ball stays on top of your whip.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 04:41 PM
  #450  
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Knight2
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Joined: Sep 2009
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Hey guys!

Been lurking and reading everything I can! Just purchased a 2005 Ultra Classic EG and really enjoying it!
Onlly thing is the wifes right leg is slowing roasting off her bones!!
so she says...
My buddy and I (he gave me) some Rolling Thunder slip ons and the bike really sounds awesome now compared to stock.
I can't afford the true duals,stage 1, etc etc. right now but what else can I do to cool this baby down? I mean it was hot before the slip ons but thought they might help.
I took the lowers off for the Key West poker run but just reinstalled them and she says its still hot around town.
This is driving me nuts! hahah

These mods are awesome! Need to start on a few soon too!
Which antenna, (looking from the back) is the radio and CB?
Does cutting the CB antenna affect it much? I'm going to cut these tonight but don't want to hurt the CB transmission/reception.

Thanks guys, I'll be on here more cause this site is awesome'

Here's my new baby anyway'
Pete

 
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