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A resistor is not a safe and reliable way to drop the voltage to 9V on a car or a bike. A regulated IC circuit can be bought for under 10 bucks on Ebay. I got mine for $1.50. Search "GMRS power adapter" on Ebay. The electronic project geeks can build one for about 5 bucks in parts. You just need a Voltage Regulator, some small filtering capacitors, and an LED for reverse polarity protection. It would probably even work without the caps and LED. Here's a link to the diagram: http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Power/9v2a.htm
I forgot to mention that the Radio Shack 21-100 adapter is discontinued at Radio Shack, hence the low price on Ebay.
I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it.
Actually you can do the whole circuit for about $2.00 and no you don't have to be a geek to build one. lol the advantage is really to limit ignition noise and alternator whine in the circuit (for the non geeks the capacitors are actually the noise filters) but the garage door opener is only on for a few seconds at most so noise shouldn't be an issue. The diode is in case you try to reverse the polarity The IC chip they are using is in effect a "varistor" that protects against unusual spikes in input voltage. (you already have a voltage regulator on the bike) and again it is only a battery operated garage door opener with relatively wide tolerances not a control circuit on a super collider
Of course you could just use the IC voltage regulator and a fuse that should cost about $1.00 in components.
To avoid any safety issues, no matter how you do it an inline fuse should be installed Took me ten times longer to type this than it would to build, install, test. and clean up from the job LOL
Last edited by Old Gray Beard; Feb 16, 2010 at 07:44 AM.
Reason: Add
I have an Electra Glide Classic. The previous owner installed the quick release hardware for the Tour-Pak, mounting the antenna to the left saddlebags chrome rail with a simple strap. Works great, except...I removed the chrome rails for a cleaner look. I am cheap and didn't want to spend ANY money on expensive mounting hardware. After looking, I figured out I can mount the antenna with it's existing strap to the saddlebag support (underneith the saddlebag). The antenna is now horizontal and hidden. Reception is still good, but I mostly listen to the Ipod. Money spent...zero!
As for the Ipod, I have a plan to purchase a "cramp buster" and mount the Ipod to that. So my ipod will be a thumbs distance away and easily removable.
took my stock radio apart and soldered a new aux port that now comes out of the back of the radio...no more wires sticking out of the front of my radio to my ipod!!
took my stock radio apart and soldered a new aux port that now comes out of the back of the radio...no more wires sticking out of the front of my radio to my ipod!!
Great idea, any pics? also what jacks did you use?
Great idea, any pics? also what jacks did you use?
i just cut a regular male/male cord in half. no pictures, sorry. i just pulled the radio (really easy, antenna, one plug, and four bolts; two on each side) then took the top and bottom plates off. checked the plug with a meter to tell which "section" of the plug was which i.e. right channel, left, channel, and ground. took the screw out of the original port to the front of the radio and sure enough, there were four wires which were labeled, rch (right channel), lch (left channel), common (ground), and one which allows the handlebar controls to stop while toggling through the options (am/fm/cd/aux). just spliced the three into the three corresponding wires and cut the "sensor" one so it'll stop on the aux even though nothing is plugged into the front. drilled a hole in the back of the radio (there's a little plastic piece" and ran my new wire through the cable hole in the inner fairing. now my ipod is velcroed under my tweeter pod (hogtunes) and the wire plugs right into it with very minimal wire showing. i LOVE it since that old wire coming out of the front of the radio really bothered me for a long time. there's a really good writeup with pictures on a cvo forum but, beware, the wires in mind did not match the wires in the pictures on that forum but it was still really straightforward after reading the inscribed circuit board. hope this helps.
i just cut a regular male/male cord in half. no pictures, sorry. i just pulled the radio (really easy, antenna, one plug, and four bolts; two on each side) then took the top and bottom plates off. checked the plug with a meter to tell which "section" of the plug was which i.e. right channel, left, channel, and ground. took the screw out of the original port to the front of the radio and sure enough, there were four wires which were labeled, rch (right channel), lch (left channel), common (ground), and one which allows the handlebar controls to stop while toggling through the options (am/fm/cd/aux). just spliced the three into the three corresponding wires and cut the "sensor" one so it'll stop on the aux even though nothing is plugged into the front. drilled a hole in the back of the radio (there's a little plastic piece" and ran my new wire through the cable hole in the inner fairing. now my ipod is velcroed under my tweeter pod (hogtunes) and the wire plugs right into it with very minimal wire showing. i LOVE it since that old wire coming out of the front of the radio really bothered me for a long time. there's a really good writeup with pictures on a cvo forum but, beware, the wires in mind did not match the wires in the pictures on that forum but it was still really straightforward after reading the inscribed circuit board. hope this helps.
dabrogger, great idea I dont like wires out the front of the stereo either. Nice mod
took my stock radio apart and soldered a new aux port that now comes out of the back of the radio...no more wires sticking out of the front of my radio to my ipod!!
Great idea, and thanks so much for the detailed information, I will be tackling this soon.
I intentionally hooked it direct so I can charge my phone or whatever even when I'm not riding.
Well, the weather was nice enough to work on my bike today. I had to replace the side stand spring and I bought the Auxiliary 12V Power port and got it installed. I did mine a little different than you did and installed mine using the Aux plug under the seat plus I installed my plug vertical. There is plenty of room for the power cord even with the lid shut. All I had to do was lengthen the wires that came with the kit "91843-97" and drill one hole in the tour pak liner.
Thanks for that tip 1of2.
Oh, the little light came from Wally World. It is supposed to clip to the bill of a cap, but I punched two small holes about 1" apart and ran a nylon tie wrap through the holes. Then I snugged the wire tie down till the light would just slide on it. I can pop it off and put it on a cap if I need the light to work on something in an emergency.
Last edited by Watchfuliz; Feb 27, 2010 at 03:05 PM.
I read through all 55 pages last night, and I am pretty impressed with the DIY attitude that's evident. Not everybody is afraid to drill a hole somewhere on their bike, or install an accessory that doesn't have the official bar and shield logo.
Today it was raining like a cow pi$$ing on a flat rock, so, inspired by last night's reading, I decided it was time to tackle the garage door opener mod. I've got a Craftsman (rebadged Genie) garage door opener with the 12 volt remotes. I couldn't be happier with the results. I used double sided tape to attach the remote to the top of the stereo. I hard wired the remote, so I don't have to worry about changing batteries. I used a odometer reset button for my momentary switch, it looks like the factory put it there. Having read the process about a gazilllion times last night made it feel like I had actually done the mod before, and it all went very smoothly, even reinstalling the outer fairing.
I was going to do the Radio Shack siren mod tomorrow, but it looks like sunshine, so that'll have to wait for the next rainy day.
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