Hi Dawg, I like that bearing puller, any info on how to buy or rent one of those?

Taterdog, Glad you got it running and Ihope it quiets down for ya. I see in the thread you rented the Jim's tool to replace your bearings? Happen to have any info you can provide on who to rent from? I live in the Columbus OH area and can;t seem to find anyone that has one for rent. Would look at buying one from Jim's but not sure how many more Cam jobs I will be doing in the near future.

Thanks again Guys.

Great Thread.

 

Combo tools for Evo, early and late model TC engines. One tool removes AND installs inner cam bearings.

$85 each PLUS shipping by USPS Priority Mail, 2-3 day sevice, from 53704.

PayPal and insurance available.

Email for details if interested....

beattygw@sbcglobal.net

 

Tim, I sent you an e-mail about where I rented my tools.

Jim

 

Hey Taterdog,

You asked me to let you know how mine runs after completion. Well, it is running good now. After getting everything together, I fired it up and it ran terrible. The front cylinder was firing, nothing from the rear cylinder. Talk about being bummed [:@][:@]. It was close to midnite by then, so the next afternoon, we removed the adjustable pushrods from the rear cylinder and re-installed being very careful to count flats, not that we were not careful the first time too. Must have had a rod too tight causing a valve not to seat completely before. When I fired it after readjusting, it ran fine. The exhaust sounds great. I believe it has a slightly badder as in badazz sound to the exhaust now.
Like you, I hear a little gear whine, nothing to loud but it is there. I rode it about a mile, it was very cold about 40 deg and had been drizzling rain but I had to go. It ran strong, I'm very pleased now.
For the guy that asked about the inner bearing puller/installer, I bought mine from George's Garage. $160.00 for both pieces delivered. A lot of cash for such a specialized tool, but I have friends that are sharing the cost to do their cams too. Do a search on Ebay.

Ride safe,
04Ultra

 

Taterdog, did you happen to leave off the front rocker cover? Just wonder if you are getting oil to the top end. Where do you hear the noise?

When I did my 26G's, I left off the front rocker cover, started her up and watched for oil into the top end. Was just dribbling out - was expecting to see it squirting out. I was not happy - not sure if something wrong in the oil pump or cam plate. Long story short, I put in a feuling oil pump and lifters (really cleaned out the cam plate and blew out all the channels)- started her up and oil everywhere (much better flow to the top end). IMO - I really do not like the adjustable pushrods (appear much less robust than the stock rods). FYI - oil from the oil pump goes through several channels in the cam plate (two are the channels that go up to the middle hole in the casing for the lifters, then the oil is supposed to get pumped up through the lifter up the push rods to the top end) through the rockers and get squirted on the valves (oil then gravity drains back into the bottom end).

 

Having just finished replacing my cams with 26G's, here are a few more learnings, and then I'll shut up!
[ol][*]Your existing pushrods are easy to cut with bolt cutters. I thought they were solid rod and was wondering how easy they would be to cut, but they aren't solid rod but tube. No sweat.[*]If you use the oven/freezer method, I'd heat parts up at 300F to 350F for 30 minutes and put parts in the freezer at least ten minutes longer. Work fast, as parts cool off (and expand) quickly. Have a soft hammer nearby in case you need to tap the parts together. If by chance you don't work fast enough, don't sweat it. But you'll need to take your partially assembled parts to a local shop to finish pressing them together. Just a time waster more than anything else.[*]My original cams and bearings just needed a light tap to remove them from the cam plate -- no heating required. More than likely yours will do the same.[*]You'll probably lose a half quart to a quart of oil when you do this job, so be sure you REPLACE it when you're done.[*]The instructions for the adjustable pushrods say it is easier to install them if you replace the lifter covers -- WRONG --it is impossible to install them without replacing the lifter covers. I'm sure there's some talented mechanics who can do it, but most of us can't, so just get yourself some lifter cover gaskets and be done with it.[*]It's possible to install the adjustable pushrods with stock pushrod covers, but it ain't easy. Your choice if you decide to get the shorter pushrod covers offered by HD. Wish I had.[*]Go ahead and replace the pushrod cover o-rings (three per cover, and their all different). You don't want an oil leak at the covers.[*]Removing the pushrod cover snap ring is easy -- installing it is a b**ch! There is a tool that makes the installation much easier. I'll probably buy one just to have it on hand, runs around $50. Otherwise, use a screwdriver with cylinder fins as leverage to push down the lower pushrod cover in order to install the upper spring clip. Again, it's a b**ch -- you can see that by my knuckles.[*]Count very carefully when adjusting the pushrods. Put a mark on the exposed part of the pushrod and count the revolutions, 'cause their ain't no way you'll be able to count flats on the nut. I may have to do mine over again because I used wrench turns, which weren't as accurate. Hopefully I'm between 3 and 4 turns in the Andrews instructions.[*]Use a straw in the spark plug hole to help you find TDC position. Between that and the position of the lifters (both at their low point), you'll find it without a problem.[*]Screw turning the rear wheel in fifth gear, unless you want to work yourself to death. Take off the clutch cover (and get a new gasket, if needed) and turn the compensator nut clockwise to rotate the engine. You'll want to send me $$$ just for giving you this tip. If I had to rotate the rear wheel, I'd still be in the garage tonight, or be six feet under by now.[*]You'll need some type of fuel management system to make this thing run right with geared cams. I went with a PCIII (my third). I bought it from Fuelmoto, so if you did Jamie can send you a revised map for your config and the 26G's, or at least get you close enough. Or you can have it dyno'd.[*]I replaced my lifters with the HD "B" lifters. You don't have to, but I had 30+k miles on my bike and it sounded like a good idea. My old lifters and cams looked great, however, so whether this was needed, who knows.[*]You'll need some Loctite Red for the crank gear and cam gear, otherwise everything else used Loctite Blue.[*]Bag and label all your bolts so you put things back in the right place.[*]A good link for step by step info is Harley Hogs Lair, [URL=http://www.harleyhog.co.

 

Tater,

Good stuff


I had no problems with turning the rear wheel.

Also, everyone should not forget the assembly lube.

 

Back at ya, 04Ultra. Yeah, I'm sure the adjustable pushrods are a good thing, but not my favorite part of the job. Unfortunately, they are probably one of the most critical parts to get right. As soon as the weather improves I plan to ride mine and see how it does. Pretty sure I'm just still getting a little lifter noise since I have less than 2 minutes of total engine time since the rebuild, but riding will show that. If need be, I'll adjust the pushrods again. Glad to hear yours is working fine now. I think we'll both be glad to be rid of the tensioners!

Tater

 

2005, I didn't remove my rocker cover, just the lifter covers. When I installed the pushrods I seated the tops first, then the bottoms, and checked with a mirror to be sure I was okay up top. I also didn't blow out the channels in the cam plate -- maybe I should have.
Oh well, live and learn. Probably a good tip for anyone who follows us!

 

Don't know -- maybe I have a brake that's dragging, but sure don't hear it. Gives me something else to check. Who knows, maybe it will improve my mpg if I find a problem.