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I've been considering the 26G camas well. Aligning the motor for the cams shouldn't be a problem, but I have had problems in the past when doing engine work and tend to screw one thing or another up. I have every tool known to man and a closed garage to do the work in. Besides not getting a good seal on the gaskets or the bike falling off the lift, what is the worst that could happen when doing the gear drive/cam install myself?
Also, will the bike have to be remapped?
I am just up the road from you. I finished my AMS 96" BB and Andrews 26G cam install 28 Nov 2007, and now have about 2000 miles on the build.
I am no expert, but I can give you the benefit of my limited experience.
ORIGINAL: Taterdog
Also, special tanks to Dawg and PhilM and others who have provided me with great info along the way. Of all the places on the internet, this forum is probably the most informative and productive.
You are VERY welcome! Many have helped me over the years and my philosophy is that what goes around comes around and that things always even out in the end.....
Now, you are ready to help the next guy and we can all see that you have already stepped up and started sharing the knowledge you've gained. That's a perfect example of my philosophy in action!
Basically mine sounds like a diesel when she gets hot. I have talked to several other 26g users who got the same results. We all chased the noise, but nobody ever came up with a solution or a reason such a mild cam would cause this.
After reading post after post on another site about this same thing, I tried what they did.I cannot tell you why this works, but it didfor me and manyothers. When adjusting the pushrods, instead of the recomended2 1/2 turns after zero lash (se pushrods), try fewer turns. I tried 1 1/4 turns on eachpushrod. Some tried as few as 3/4 turn. Theengine was quiet cold, as it was before. I ran the engine 50 miles, and it was still quiet when hot. I have not had the noise since. Believe me, it was bad at 2 1/2 turns. I could not be happier now.
Yep. old Hot Rod trick as well to prevent floating valves at high RPM. Keeps the lifter from pumping up after coming off the ramp.We use togo zero lash, then as low as 1/2 to 1 turn depending on the thread pitch. Just enough to give 0.010 to 0.030 preload. Less the better. If you have problems with a little clatter down the road then go another 1/2 turn. Basically to take up any slack when it gets hot or wear occurs.
ORIGINAL: nearmiss
Basically mine sounds like a diesel when she gets hot. I have talked to several other 26g users who got the same results. We all chased the noise, but nobody ever came up with a solution or a reason such a mild cam would cause this.
After reading post after post on another site about this same thing, I tried what they did.I cannot tell you why this works, but it didfor me and manyothers. When adjusting the pushrods, instead of the recomended2 1/2 turns after zero lash (se pushrods), try fewer turns. I tried 1 1/4 turns on eachpushrod. Some tried as few as 3/4 turn. Theengine was quiet cold, as it was before. I ran the engine 50 miles, and it was still quiet when hot. I have not had the noise since. Believe me, it was bad at 2 1/2 turns. I could not be happier now.
Yep. old Hot Rod trick as well to prevent floating valves at high RPM. Keeps the lifter from pumping up after coming off the ramp.We use togo zero lash, then as low as 1/2 to 1 turn depending on the thread pitch. Just enough to give 0.010 to 0.030 preload. Less the better. If you have problems with a little clatter down the road then go another 1/2 turn. Basically to take up any slack when it gets hot or wear occurs.
I re-used my stock pushrods since I also did a AMS 96" BB at the same time. I did not experience any such noise. I did install AMS lifters though.
Just curious. If you pull your lifter covers, which we have to anyway, can you work out the existing pushrods and reinstall them without tearing down the top end too? Do we really need adjustable pushrods?
Tater, need to pull the rocker covers (after removing the tank. etc.) and then the rocker assembly. Not really a big thing since you're not touching the head bolts. Just a couple more gaskets to replace.
Ops, think I understnad what you were thinking. Answer is "no", no way to remove the push rods from the bottom. Left in one piece they need to come out from the top - i.e. my previous posting (pull rocker covers).
It's easier to pull the tanks on the 08's[8D] If you do pull the tank to remove the pushrods, then you might as well do the oil return trick like Doherty uses as explained HERE
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