Bumping up to 103"
If you have a new bike and plan to dump $4,000 to $5,000 into the motor heres what you should do.Take the stock motor out and put it on the shelf and buy a new 124 for about $6,000.You'll have penty of power to burn the tires off the rims, i dumped $5,000.00 into a 95 build and didn't get a dime back when i sold my bike.
From HD's website regarding the Stage II BB 103 kit mentioned above:
NOTE: Recalibration is required for proper installation, and will allow engine to rev to 6200 RPM. See dealer for details. Labor cost not included. When installed by an authorized Harley-DavidsonÂŽ Dealer, these kits do not impact the vehicle's limited warranty.

That clown doesn't have a clue what the F he's talking about. Most of us who've bought a few HD's aren't completely stupid. I hesitate to say it, because I like a lot of the guys at several of the HD dealerships that I know, but it isn't uncommon at all to get the "dog's watchin TV look" when you start to talk to them about something other than what their manual says. Rarely will you find an enthusiast that actually seems to care or understand half of what you're discussing unless it's something they've heard...and they repeat it. I know for example, that a Stage II Harley build is no monster, it won't pull the front end up off the ground, and it ain't no dyno queen. I also know that stock96" motors are making high 80's into 90's in torque with stock cams. The Stage II 103"is a smooth, easy starting, very quick mild build with stock heads. They make 85-90 HP and 100ft/lb (often better),all day. They are the best "Stage II's" with the mid lift 255 camsand stock heads HD has offered. Way better than the old Stage II88" to 95" with SE 203's, but even those were nice improvements to a stock Harley. For a guywho's mantra is "I work in aHarley shop" maintain suchnonsense is almost laughable. As I said, I didn't really think $2600 labor and parts was that great of a deal forthe Stage II 103", but worth it to me to have it done before I took delivery so I could ride. I've been extremely pleased with the whole setup since.
Hold up a second. My dealer sold me a 103 build. Said I needed 103 jugs, 37G cams . Pro performer heads. Dome top pistons 10:5.1 . the complete package cost me $4500. My dyno read out was 100 TQ and 87 HP . I have reinharts. So why is it you got a build for $2600 and it cost me $4500 and you got more everything ???????
Here are the HD builds I know of andfor sake of this thread for07-08's and 96" to 103" motors:
Stage I-A Screamin Eagle Air Cleaner kit-$150 parts only
Big Bore Stage I- increases displacement from a 96" (1584cc) to 103" (1690cc). Big Bore cylinders, Flat Top Pistons, a Stage 1 Air Cleaner and some miscellaneous rings clips and gaskets. Also comes with a stiffer clutch spring. No cams, uses stock cams.-$640 Parts only
Big Bore Stage II-everything mentioned above with SE 255 cams and SERT.-$1,200 Parts only (Parts and labor for mine was $2,600)
Big Bore Stage II with Heads-everything mentioned above with SE Cams, (honestly not sure what kind) and SE Heads, possibly bigger throttle body, etc. I don't have any real knowledgeof this kit because it doesn't interest me. The big obvious difference are the Heads which retail at HD for around $1,200 alone, so that is where you start getting into the $4000 range with labor.
There are many other after marketperformance kits for that amount or less and if I were going to do it with Heads I'd go that route. My choice of a Stage II with stock heads and SERT for $2,600, 85-90 HP and 100-105 ft/lb tor
The Stage II Big Bore Kit provides the parts you need to improve the track performance and horsepower of your EFI-equipped model. The kit increases the displacement of your Twin Cam-equipped model from 96 cubic inches (1584cc) to 103 cubic inches (1690cc). Includes Stage II (SE-255) cams, Big Bore cylinders, Big Bore flat top pistons and a Stage I Air Cleaner Kit with one-piece backplate, integral breathers, all mounting hardware, and gaskets. Also includes a high performance clutch spring. Requires separate purchase of primary cover gasket. Not all components shown. All EFI-equipped models require ECM calibration* (priced separately). For race application only.
There is a great deal of misinformation out there which is why I asked, that's why I'm going to spend as little as possible to accomplish this task (that may have come off the wrong way but it is what it is).
The way I see it, I could buythe SE 103" kit (532.00 + shipping from Zanotti's) and have itinstalled for around a grand, I can't imagine it costing more than$2000 total, but that's just me folks...I'm not cheap, I'm frugal!
seriously though---
2008 dresser - set of slip ons/SE AC/SERT - most bang for the buck
After that the ROI isjust too small for most of us to justify
but, like they say, this is America! Spend as you see fit.
Smokin
The ONLY think we should ask ourselves is "what do we want our bike to do?"
You can't have it all - 100k reliabilty, jap smashing horsepower, Duramax yankin' torque (ya I'm a GMC guy) and hybrid fuel mileage. Not gonna happen!
As I see it there are four groups of riders, we all crossover the lines I know:
1) Normal everyday riding, touring with the wife, ya know the country diner ride and over to the bed and breakfast. Sturgis run in August.
2)The "hotrod" touring bagger guy (or gal, stayin' pc). Rides a few hundred miles a day on the weekends. Likes to race the buddies on the on ramps. Braggin' rights are important. Fuel mileage and reliabilty are very important though.
3) Bike night Charlie. Mileage or reliabilty are important, only going to ride a few miles at a time. Needs to have all the "hot name" aftermarket stuff on his bike. Has his dyno chart in his pocket. Probably never bucked a 40 mph crosswind at 80 mph for 200 miles. Sweet bikes though. Value is based on some sort of calculus applied to his dyno chart.
4)Serious bike builder guys. Indy shops and upstart performance shops. These guys know motors! They understand the physics involved and get the most out of it. Huge cube thunder buckets yielding enough torque to pull tree stumps and horsepower to propel anything onboard to cheek flapping speeds.
1's don't need more than about 80 -85 hp from a 96. Runs cooler, alittle more snap and that Harley sound.
2's need to just get to that magic "one-fer-one number", 1 hp / ft lb per cubic inch. The theoretical efficiency peak. 103" at around 103 hp. Great power, great mileage, decent reliability and runs cooler than stock.
3's need as much as they can afford. Usually top out around 130 hp at any displacement. Power after this mark gets hard to get! Mileage doesn't matter so big *** cams and super flowing heads turn these guys on.
4's just keep pushing the limits of the V twin. They have improved true design and have mastered the physics. 150 hp up to who knows anymore.
Justmy long winded roll of 2 cents.
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