IDS Bearing failure
I'm assuming the bearing gets pressed into the opposite side of the pulley, the spacer gets installed in the side of the pulley that is shown in the pic, and the washer goes between the pulley and the part bolted to the hub. I couldn't quickly find the install instructions to confirm this, but that's what I see by looking at the pic.
So my question is, what hold the pulley to the part bolted to the hub? Is it just the pressure of the pressed in bearing against the wheel to swingarm spacer? God I hope not.

Is it just the pressure of the pressed in bearing against the wheel to swingarm spacer? God I hope not.


The compensator bowl(round thing with rubber spacers) bolts directly to the wheel with the five bolts provided. One spacer in the picture goes in between the bowl and the sprocket inwhich the axles stabs thru it all, but the sprocket(big black thing) just "stabs" onto the bowl and all this is held together between the swing arm on the wheel.So in recapping the Sprocket itself is not actually "bolted" to the compensator bowl, but justpressed into the splines and held together by design, notnuts and bolts per say.
The bearing grenading and galling up is what would cause the disaster by potentially locking up the rear wheel and/or coming apart all together depending on the speed involved, IMO.
I've never really considered adding one of these to my bike, so I never really paid much attention to the design. Now that I've looked at it for a while, the whole thing seems bass ackwards to me.
Why didn't they put the rubber isolators in the pulley and bolt that directly to the wheel. Then the bowl could slip in place and get sandwiched between the wheel spacer and swingarm. Wouldn't that prevent the bearing from experiencing any akward loads due to the pulley wobbling around on the bowl.
I also wonder how many belts this thing is going to wear out prematurally. Maybe I'm overly paranoid on this.......
Zach
I think probably so. Amazing how fast we conclude that it's going to be a major problem leading to disaster after only one post with a bad bearing shows up.
We probably should be asking some V-Rod guys since they have always had the IDS installed on their bikes. Wonder if any of them have had any problems with the bearing.
At about 7500 miles I got the same clicking sound. This time I took it directly to the dealer and they replaced the entire assembly, the theory being the first one may have been machined incorrectly. 2500 miles later, it is still just fine. In both cases, the inner race broke. The clicking came from the broken race nicking the ball bearing. Why they didn't use roller bearings I haven't a clue.
At no time did the bike exhibit any handling problems. I don't think a rear wheel lockup would have been likely.
I'm pulling on my pants and going to check it NOW!
But ya all didn't listen.
You reap what you sow!!
eventually that bad bearing will ruin the wheel.
then instead of $20 try $300 -$600 depending on the wheel
Glad so many of you have money to spare and don't have to worry about it!!
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Japanese bikes have been using this same isolation method for years and Its never been a problem. I have a 37 year old Honda that I just finished rebuilding and when I removed the rear wheel the original bearing and rubber isolators were still installed and still functioning fine.
I installed an IDS on my 07 ultra myself and pressed the bearing using just an arbor press and it went in fine without the hot and cold method most are describing.
I have read some haveused the hot and cold meathod and pounded the bearing in with a block of wood and a hammer. I can see mabe this method causing a bearing to fail.
Just my opinion......but I think most on this forum worry too much.






