Here is my full install for engine guards lights
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 599
Likes: 3
From: In a van, down by the river.
Here is my full install for engine guards lights
This is how I wired my Engine Guard Lights HD part # 68913-98B to run off the stock Accessory switch on dash without removing the fuel tank. I did this on an ‘08 SG.
I have seen a lot of guys ask questions beacuase they just are not sure about doing this themself. I would rate it average on the "tough" scale. But you have to determine that by your own fears, I mean abilities. I added a little detail so you can print this out and do it yourself. I hope this helps some people.
If your bikes provided accessory switch is not being used for anything else, you can wire your lights as follows. The lights can be operated without relying on the high/low beam. Great thing is, no faring removal, no ignition switch wiring.
The things to make this job fairly simple are butt connectors, electrical tape, a standard paint can opener, stock antenna from your bike or equivalent, (2) three foot pieces of string, 4 small washers or nuts, and a small nail-set punch. Fashion your free-end wire connections in the manner you feel appropriate, I used crimp butt connectors. You can do this job yourself, but several of the steps would have been made easier with a second set of hands, even incompetent hands would do.
First thing is it to remove the provided switch from wiring harness included with the light kit. Cut off both wires just back about 2 inches from switch. Pull out red wire and keep for later. Keep plastic that covered these two wires also. Now lay out the wiring harness and with your hands, straighten out any kinks. While holding on to the wire cover by where you cut the switch off, grab the white wire that went to the switch and pull it back towards you, move it about 1 to 2 inches. Now from the other end, you can tell which white wire you just pulled on. Mark that white wire, which goes into the relay box with a piece of tape. Now from the side where the white wire comes out of the cover and into the relay, work that white wire you taped all the way to you and out of the harness coating. Your wiring harness is now ready to route and connect.
Remove seat. Remove ECM directly over the battery (large torx bolt through plastic tray into frame). Directly in front of the battery, work the following two plugs upward for access to them: one gray plug is a hard plastic, second is square rubber. Both have dummy caps. Remove gray dummy by releasing lock pin. Pull out rubber plug on other. Using a meter, now verify twelve volts to the bottom left pin with a meter (position plug so smooth part of plug is down, and lock groove is on top). Turn ignition to on, turn on accessory switch on dash. You should have a twelve volt reading. Turn access switch off and ignition off. Since dealing with wiring and everything else I read from you guys, I now disconnected the ECM and removed maxi-fuse. See manual. Maxi fuse is under left side panel in fuse box. Large fuse on right side.
[font="times new roman"][size=3]Get a standard paint can opener (pco). With the pco on its side, file the width of the hooked end down a little bit on both s
I have seen a lot of guys ask questions beacuase they just are not sure about doing this themself. I would rate it average on the "tough" scale. But you have to determine that by your own fears, I mean abilities. I added a little detail so you can print this out and do it yourself. I hope this helps some people.
If your bikes provided accessory switch is not being used for anything else, you can wire your lights as follows. The lights can be operated without relying on the high/low beam. Great thing is, no faring removal, no ignition switch wiring.
The things to make this job fairly simple are butt connectors, electrical tape, a standard paint can opener, stock antenna from your bike or equivalent, (2) three foot pieces of string, 4 small washers or nuts, and a small nail-set punch. Fashion your free-end wire connections in the manner you feel appropriate, I used crimp butt connectors. You can do this job yourself, but several of the steps would have been made easier with a second set of hands, even incompetent hands would do.
First thing is it to remove the provided switch from wiring harness included with the light kit. Cut off both wires just back about 2 inches from switch. Pull out red wire and keep for later. Keep plastic that covered these two wires also. Now lay out the wiring harness and with your hands, straighten out any kinks. While holding on to the wire cover by where you cut the switch off, grab the white wire that went to the switch and pull it back towards you, move it about 1 to 2 inches. Now from the other end, you can tell which white wire you just pulled on. Mark that white wire, which goes into the relay box with a piece of tape. Now from the side where the white wire comes out of the cover and into the relay, work that white wire you taped all the way to you and out of the harness coating. Your wiring harness is now ready to route and connect.
Remove seat. Remove ECM directly over the battery (large torx bolt through plastic tray into frame). Directly in front of the battery, work the following two plugs upward for access to them: one gray plug is a hard plastic, second is square rubber. Both have dummy caps. Remove gray dummy by releasing lock pin. Pull out rubber plug on other. Using a meter, now verify twelve volts to the bottom left pin with a meter (position plug so smooth part of plug is down, and lock groove is on top). Turn ignition to on, turn on accessory switch on dash. You should have a twelve volt reading. Turn access switch off and ignition off. Since dealing with wiring and everything else I read from you guys, I now disconnected the ECM and removed maxi-fuse. See manual. Maxi fuse is under left side panel in fuse box. Large fuse on right side.
[font="times new roman"][size=3]Get a standard paint can opener (pco). With the pco on its side, file the width of the hooked end down a little bit on both s
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
RE: Here is my full install for engine guards lights
Thanks for the detailed write-up. Pics would have been AWESOME and probably saved some typing. I have my fog lamps installedin a similar way on my '04.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 599
Likes: 3
From: In a van, down by the river.
RE: Here is my full install for engine guards lights
Awe, come on guys, there is enough detail in there for my wife to do this job.
She may have scratched the sh*t out of everything doing it, but she would have got it done.
If anyone needs pics ofwhat a gas tank thingy or an engine-bash-protractor-rollover-chome-hicky-mc-bobber looks likeso you canfollow along, I will have my son point them out inpics andforward them on.
She may have scratched the sh*t out of everything doing it, but she would have got it done. If anyone needs pics ofwhat a gas tank thingy or an engine-bash-protractor-rollover-chome-hicky-mc-bobber looks likeso you canfollow along, I will have my son point them out inpics andforward them on.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 9,486
Likes: 4
From: Hico, TX (once home to Billy the Kid)
RE: Here is my full install for engine guards lights
Too many words. No Cartoon pictures?[
]
This will never work[&o]
]This will never work[&o]
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