Handlebar Replacement
Good Morning,
Has anyone changed out their handlebars for something a little more wider/comfortable. On my 06 Ultra, after I ride for a while, my right wrist starts to hurt.... I was thinking of maybe adjusting the handlebars, but I wanted to see what you all thought. Any comments or suggestions will be welcomed.
Joe D
VA Bch
Has anyone changed out their handlebars for something a little more wider/comfortable. On my 06 Ultra, after I ride for a while, my right wrist starts to hurt.... I was thinking of maybe adjusting the handlebars, but I wanted to see what you all thought. Any comments or suggestions will be welcomed.
Joe D
VA Bch
I'm in the middle of a major handlebar fairing mod. I've removed the inner fairing and had it painted, chromed out the switch housings, switches, clutch and brake brackets and am into the handlebars today. i'm doing the Wild 1's Chubby bars as in this post from the Do It yourself forum.
Here,https://www.hdforums.com/m_205128/tm.htm
Without it I wouldn't have even tried it. As a matter of fact without this forum, I wouldn't have tried to do any mods!
Here,https://www.hdforums.com/m_205128/tm.htm
Without it I wouldn't have even tried it. As a matter of fact without this forum, I wouldn't have tried to do any mods!
I replaced my stock bars with just a simple set of 2" longer bars on my 06 Ultra. I didn't flash it up with chrome, just stainless, most of the bars are hidden. My dealer said they were a stock type replacement, just longer back for my shorter arms. I was getting back aches on longer rides. They were only about $50.00. Gene
I'm with Fatboy, I installed the reach touring bars on my EG Standard, had to reroute the clutch cable and mod the brake line a little but thats it, love the bars, so much more comfortable.
Heres a pic.
Heres a pic.
Wild1's bagger bars... best thing since sliced bread... http://www.wild1inc.com/575.html
I am in the process of putting the WildOnes W575s on my 88 FLHTC and, while I have not had a chance to ride them yet I'll share some items. First they really seem to sit in a more comfortable position, back about 2", 2" wider and put your hands right at the top of the fairing.
Do not believe Wildones when they say you can use the stock cables, yes they will bolt up but it is very tight. I bought 6" longer clutch, Idle and Throttle from Dennis Kirk for about $150 (stainless clutch). The 6" are causing their own issues trying to cleanly route them. 3-4, maybe even 2 would have been cleaner.
I am putting on new brake lines because I needed 2" longer on the upper. I could not find the one piece OE lines with a 2" extension (tried J+P and DennisK) so I had to buy 2 new lowers, new tri-piece, new upper and new Banjo fittings all around. This will end up around $150 when all said and done. I went stainless again, vinyl would have been a bit cheaper.
I did not route the wires inside the bar as I would have had to get extensions and I didn't want to mess with it. With the clutch, brake and throttle exposed hiding the wires was not going to get me much bang for the buck.
Will I be happy with the results? - I'm sure of it. Is it a "quicky" project? - not for me. I had to replace the cables anyway as the T and I cable were broken when I bought the bike and the clutch cable was all sun bleached out. The bars were bent from a drop as well so since I had to do them anyway this is what motivated the new bars.
It's only money, hell I'd just spend it on my wife if I didn't spend it on the bike.
Do not believe Wildones when they say you can use the stock cables, yes they will bolt up but it is very tight. I bought 6" longer clutch, Idle and Throttle from Dennis Kirk for about $150 (stainless clutch). The 6" are causing their own issues trying to cleanly route them. 3-4, maybe even 2 would have been cleaner.
I am putting on new brake lines because I needed 2" longer on the upper. I could not find the one piece OE lines with a 2" extension (tried J+P and DennisK) so I had to buy 2 new lowers, new tri-piece, new upper and new Banjo fittings all around. This will end up around $150 when all said and done. I went stainless again, vinyl would have been a bit cheaper.
I did not route the wires inside the bar as I would have had to get extensions and I didn't want to mess with it. With the clutch, brake and throttle exposed hiding the wires was not going to get me much bang for the buck.
Will I be happy with the results? - I'm sure of it. Is it a "quicky" project? - not for me. I had to replace the cables anyway as the T and I cable were broken when I bought the bike and the clutch cable was all sun bleached out. The bars were bent from a drop as well so since I had to do them anyway this is what motivated the new bars.
It's only money, hell I'd just spend it on my wife if I didn't spend it on the bike.
Same as others, replaced original bars on my Street glide with the reach bars. Much better, happy with them. Had to replace some cables.
Trending Topics
As set by Harley, my Road King's stock bars were actually rotated too far forward to be comfortable. I rotated them back and they worked really well - although eventually I replaced them with their "extended reach" bars which allowed me to run the wires internally. I'm only 5'8" which means my arms are a bit short too. A comfortable set of handlebars will go a long way to make your bike a true touring bike, imho.
Saltybagger - I agree with all you have to say about the cables with the exception of the wires... My stock wires fit just fine... where the wires plug together - the female portion is held to the brace (I think) just pull that off - there is plenty of room - taking the male plug apart is a little interesting the first time but then is super simple once you see how it is done (NO special tool is needed) don't believe me, pm me and I will give you my home number and I will walk you through it - less than 5 min and you will get it -
I am a short rider (5'6") and at first I was worried about the 34 inch wide bar - two years later, no problem...
I am a short rider (5'6") and at first I was worried about the 34 inch wide bar - two years later, no problem...
I just finished putting the Wild1 W508's on my RK Standard. Everbody is right on with the cable issue. I ran my electrics through the bars, a real tight fit, but it works. The cables I ran 2" over on all cables, which worked out perfect. Wild1 also recommends you use a 1 piece bar clamp instead of the stock 2 piece clamps. This still fit inside my nacelle no problem. I forget the part numer, Wild1 mentions it on thier website, but the chrome clamp only cost me about $10-$15. One last thing, take the time to lube all your cables before you put it together. It only takes a second and is well worth it.





