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DYNO Numbers for Baggers???

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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #1541  
Wilkey65's Avatar
Wilkey65
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From: Antioch, CA
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Originally Posted by RoadHawgRider
2010 Ultra Limited (103) - Dyno numbers
Stock: 70hp/85ft./lb torque
PCV: 72hp/90ft./lb torque
PCV/SE Airfilter: 75hp/93ft./lb. torque
PCV/SEAF/V&H powerduals/monster ovals: 78hp/95ft./lb.torque
PCV/SEAF/V&H PD/MO+ CAMS+Woods TW6-6: 95hp/104ft./lb.torque

I'm done...........

Those numbers are almost exactly the same as mine. Put a fork in me, I'm done too. Nice improvement over stock.
2010 Ultra Limited 103"
D&D Fat Cat w/Consentric Baffles
Master Tuner (RC Cycles, Hayward CA) w/SEAC
Andrews TW26 Cams
96HP/103TQ
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 06:23 PM
  #1542  
muskrat's Avatar
muskrat
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need a TQ fixing here folks. Help!
Here's what I have:
1. Power Commander V
2. Vance & Hines monster ovals
3. Arlen Ness big air cleaner



I'm at 73 hp and 87 torque.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 08:43 AM
  #1543  
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BigDaveOnBass
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From: Evans, GA
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I am in the process of acquiring the pieces to go big bore on my '04 FLTRI. I got a set of S/E big bore jugs on the way. I have a friend in town who is a machinist and does work on HD cylinder heads. His head work includes porting, shaving, bigger valves (I'm assuming either 1.9 or 2.0 intake and 1.6 exhaust,) new guides, heavy duty springs and compression releases...all for around $750 on my castings. He said these heads work well with flat top pistons. I am currently running 26G cams and have a Stage 1 breather, SERT and V&H True Duals. I have read a lot about Big Boyz Heads. Here's the thing. I want good torque numbers. I'm not as concerned about HP, but if I go with Big Boys heads and decide later to go up a size on cams (probably not bigger than a .510 lift,) would the Big Boyz heads work with something bigger than 26Gs? Will the heads my friend wants to build be too much for the 26Gs? I don't want to spend a small fortune trying to find the right combo. Any advice will be appreciate.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 09:52 PM
  #1544  
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Originally Posted by BigDaveOnBass
I am in the process of acquiring the pieces to go big bore on my '04 FLTRI. I got a set of S/E big bore jugs on the way. I have a friend in town who is a machinist and does work on HD cylinder heads. His head work includes porting, shaving, bigger valves (I'm assuming either 1.9 or 2.0 intake and 1.6 exhaust,) new guides, heavy duty springs and compression releases...all for around $750 on my castings. He said these heads work well with flat top pistons. I am currently running 26G cams and have a Stage 1 breather, SERT and V&H True Duals. I have read a lot about Big Boyz Heads. Here's the thing. I want good torque numbers. I'm not as concerned about HP, but if I go with Big Boys heads and decide later to go up a size on cams (probably not bigger than a .510 lift,) would the Big Boyz heads work with something bigger than 26Gs? Will the heads my friend wants to build be too much for the 26Gs? I don't want to spend a small fortune trying to find the right combo. Any advice will be appreciate.
If you're sticking with the 26G's portwork is overkill IMO. Oversize valves with 26G's could actually hurt performance. There are other bolt-in cams that would benefit from port work, but I'm not sure any of them would benefit from larger valves. The Andrews 37 and Woods 6 both come to mind as bolt in cams that would benefit from portwork.

JMO

Zach
 
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 11:51 PM
  #1545  
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wtf i just had a dyno today and my numbers are not to impressive but the bike has so much power i like it. Some said earlier the the sae is more accurate then the std. This is my build 103 big bore screamin eagle heads,se forged pistons, se 259 e cams, adjustables,mcr,stage one a/c, se super tuner,battistini/ness head pipes, with thunder header slip ons. Hp=91.10 tq=101.70. Is something wrong is it my true duals do i need a 2 into 1. The tuner said a 2 into 1 will give me 8 t0 10 horse power more as well as raising the torque numbers. Doeas this sae or std really effect the readings off the dyno. Iam confused please explain. Do i need to take it back or what. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 06:53 AM
  #1546  
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imrotton2
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From: nw alabama
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2/1 usually helps,,, and folks have said that standard readings are 5%higher than sae ... i run pro pipe and alot of the same stuff you got and my #'s are 108 hp/125 tq ( runnin s&s 570g cams)2000 model 103 build, stock throttle body
 

Last edited by imrotton2; Jan 14, 2010 at 06:57 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 11:11 AM
  #1547  
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09gliderider
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From: CenCal
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Originally Posted by streetgliderick
wtf i just had a dyno today and my numbers are not to impressive but the bike has so much power i like it. Some said earlier the the sae is more accurate then the std. This is my build 103 big bore screamin eagle heads,se forged pistons, se 259 e cams, adjustables,mcr,stage one a/c, se super tuner,battistini/ness head pipes, with thunder header slip ons. Hp=91.10 tq=101.70. Is something wrong is it my true duals do i need a 2 into 1. The tuner said a 2 into 1 will give me 8 t0 10 horse power more as well as raising the torque numbers. Doeas this sae or std really effect the readings off the dyno. Iam confused please explain. Do i need to take it back or what. Thanks in advance.
Would seem you need a better tune(er)
I'm at 85.21hp & 101.27tq and all I have is SE Air Cleaner, SE 211 Cams, Same Head Pipe with Rineheart slipons and PC-V with custom map.
Talk to Kevin at Mitchell's Modesto H-D or RC Cycles in Hayward to get another 2cents worth.
The main thing is that you are happy with the way it rides,as long as your not trying to build a dyno queen, if that's the case then get a 502 boss hoss put a blower on it and run nitro through it
 

Last edited by 09gliderider; Jan 17, 2010 at 11:31 AM. Reason: More Info
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 04:48 PM
  #1548  
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Originally Posted by streetgliderick
wtf i just had a dyno today and my numbers are not to impressive but the bike has so much power i like it.
Looking at the dyno sheet I'm wondering if they just dumped a canned map in, did a dyno run and called it a "dyno tune". Seems like a decent tuner should have been able to tune out that big dip between 2500 -3500 rpm. Those HP/TQ numbers seem awfully humble. With that said, I defer to the experts for their opinion on this....

Definitely think you'd benefit from a 2-1 pipe.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #1549  
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ScreamineagleSERG
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Thumbs up found a fix...more air!

No more complaining about a lack of power for me!
 

Last edited by ScreamineagleSERG; Oct 16, 2011 at 05:34 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 09:46 PM
  #1550  
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Originally Posted by Plow64
Looking at the dyno sheet I'm wondering if they just dumped a canned map in, did a dyno run and called it a "dyno tune". Seems like a decent tuner should have been able to tune out that big dip between 2500 -3500 rpm. Those HP/TQ numbers seem awfully humble. With that said, I defer to the experts for their opinion on this....

Definitely think you'd benefit from a 2-1 pipe.
That dip is characteristic of the thunder header slip ons. The dip can be tuned but not with a computer. It is hard to see all the numbers, but it looks likke run file 062. This is about right to set the ve tables and maybe work a little timing. Can't see run conditions but high humidity can bring the numbers down. The other thing I can't see is what the smoothing is. If it is smoothing 5, the lines look a little rough, meaning the bike is not happy. Would also like to see what happens if the air filter was removed.
 
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