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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 12:37 AM
  #11  
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bigskyhd
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From: Florence, MT (Bitterroot Valley)
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This is what I absolutely love about this Forum. And I mean that sincerely. Thanks out there to all...
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 01:22 PM
  #12  
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MyFirstHD
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From: Inverness, FL
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Installation procedure in the manual has me confused. Page 2-10:

6. Insert screwdriver or steel rod throught hole in axle on the right side of vehicle. While holding axle stationary, tighten axle nut to 50-55 ft-lbs (69-75 Nm).

7. Insert 7/16 inch drill bit into hole in axle. See Figure 2-8.

8. Pull fork leg so that it just contacts drill bit, and then tighten alxe holder nuts to 132-180 in-lbs (14.9-20.3 Nm).

It appears as though they want to create a gap between the leg and spacer, but if that were a critical gap then the size of the rod in step #6 is critical. If the rod in step 6 is smaller than 7/16 how do you pull the rod out, after the axle nut has been tightened, and put the drill bit in? If the rod is 7/16 the step doesn't make sense. If the rod is larger than 7/16 than the gap will be the difference between the rod and drill bit.

What do you guys do, just tighen the axle nut then axle holder nuts?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 01:31 PM
  #13  
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HDV-GLIDE
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From: Indian Land, SC
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Use a good amount of anti-seize on the axle before reinstalling...Next time it should just slide out....
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 02:14 PM
  #14  
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Kbore
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From: USA
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Originally Posted by MyFirstHD
Installation procedure in the manual has me confused. Page 2-10:

6. Insert screwdriver or steel rod throught hole in axle on the right side of vehicle. While holding axle stationary, tighten axle nut to 50-55 ft-lbs (69-75 Nm).

7. Insert 7/16 inch drill bit into hole in axle. See Figure 2-8.

8. Pull fork leg so that it just contacts drill bit, and then tighten alxe holder nuts to 132-180 in-lbs (14.9-20.3 Nm).

It appears as though they want to create a gap between the leg and spacer, but if that were a critical gap then the size of the rod in step #6 is critical. If the rod in step 6 is smaller than 7/16 how do you pull the rod out, after the axle nut has been tightened, and put the drill bit in? If the rod is 7/16 the step doesn't make sense. If the rod is larger than 7/16 than the gap will be the difference between the rod and drill bit.

What do you guys do, just tighen the axle nut then axle holder nuts?
Yerp, I've scratched my head on that one too. But, if you tighten the axel nut to spec first, then you can use the OD of the hole in the other end of the axel as a "jig" to get the correct fork spacing- keeps the fork tube bushings fro wearing, so I've heard.

Speaking of the axel, +1 to what HDV-GLIDE said about the anti-sieze NOT AXEL GREASE. The inner wheel bearing races (slip fit) can freeze to the axel (now a press fit). My buddy is doing a build and had to weld a steel rod with a beater onto the guy's axel and beat it out with a 5lb sledge. The bearing had siezed onto the axel (thats why they specify Anti-sieze).
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 08:10 AM
  #15  
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MyFirstHD
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From: Inverness, FL
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Used Moly for years without any problems. On my last bike, between rubber and pads, I was popping the axle out at least once a year and after 80,000 miles the bearings and axle looked fine.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #16  
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Our07Ultra
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: St. Augustine Florida
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Originally Posted by Silvertip
What's really scary is that there are people riding around out there that put the wheel on all by themselves after they had to ask how to take it off in the first place. Pray for these people.
With ya on this bro..That IS scary!
 
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