When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Finished 16" ape install complete...have question/need advice.
I finished my project...a painted inner fairing and 16" apes (didn't get to the stereo install...didn't get all my parts in).
Anyway, I've had the 13" CycleSmiths on for about 2-3 months with no issues. Today, after finishing everything up I went on a short ride with my neighbor. While taking off on a hard start, I thought I notice the bars slipping a little. When I got home I decided to give the bars a decent tug and sure enough...they slipped about a 1/4". Now, I know I have them tight as hell because they slipped on me during the install and I figured I just didn't have the clamp tight enough...so, I tightened it. I dont have a torque wrench (man, do I need one) but I'm sure I tighten the clamp good enough. I even got a little scared of busting off the screw head.
I just did a quick search for a remedy and found all kinds of things...aluminum shims, emery cloth, rubber bike tube, use poly bushings instead of rubber, etc.
I want to know if anyone had this problem and what you did that worked for you?
You were on a few post that I was on about doing 16 apes. Do have any pics of what it looks like, so was it a big difference between the 13 apes. Do you think it looks funny from the front with the apes sticking up so far. I am about 75/25% going to go with 16. Thanks
No personal experience but more than one person has fixed this common problem with either/or aluminum shims cut from a beer can (a soft drink can will do also ) or replace the two piece top clamps with the HD one piece top clamp.
You were on a few post that I was on about doing 16 apes. Do have any pics of what it looks like, so was it a big difference between the 13 apes. Do you think it looks funny from the front with the apes sticking up so far. I am about 75/25% going to go with 16. Thanks
I didn't take any pics yet...I can take some in the next day or so (getting too dark now). Yes, I still don't like the way they look sticking up past the fairing but...they are comfortable and cool as $hit! Plus, I have a 6" shield that helps not make them look so tall.
If there is any doubt you might like the 16" apes...just go with them because if you don't, you will be down the road.
No personal experience but more than one person has fixed this common problem with either/or aluminum shims cut from a beer can (a soft drink can will do also ) or replace the two piece top clamps with the HD one piece top clamp.
Cool thanks. BTW, I have the one piece top clamp.
I need to figure something out. Whatever I decide, I know I will be changing out to the rubber bushings for poly bushings. I went back out and tugged on the bars slightly...ALOT of play with the rubber bushings.
As you said in your original post - YOU DO NEED A TORQUE WRENCH!
Per the service manual (the 2007 touring one), you're supposed to tighten the front screws FIRST so that the two sides touch, then torque the rear to 16-20 ft lbs, then torque the front ones 16-20 ft lbs. This will leave a slight gap between the two sides at the rear - that's normal. I used the one piece top clamp too. Never had any slop. . .
it`s probably the overlay of chrome baried in the cross cuts were your clamp should be biteing, i used sratch cloth to knock the chrome down then took a sharp flat bit punch, a hammer & created heavy cross lines for a better bite, hope this helps,, i should note that i did this on the enitial install so my bars never did slip, & one could say that this may or may not have made any diference , i say it DID..
As you said in your original post - YOU DO NEED A TORQUE WRENCH!
Per the service manual (the 2007 touring one), you're supposed to tighten the front screws FIRST so that the two sides touch, then torque the rear to 16-20 ft lbs, then torque the front ones 16-20 ft lbs. This will leave a slight gap between the two sides at the rear - that's normal. I used the one piece top clamp too. Never had any slop. . .
Yep, you're right...I do need one, but I did tighten the front ones first and then the rear (guranteed at least if not more than 16-20 ft lbs of torq).
Originally Posted by 1Reaper
PM me if your selling the 13's
Yep, they are for sale. Haven't listed them yet though.
Originally Posted by eagletalon
it's probably the overlay of chrome baried in the cross cuts were your clamp should be biteing, i used sratch cloth to knock the chrome down then took a sharp flat bit punch, a hammer & created heavy cross lines for a better bite, hope this helps,, i should note that i did this on the enitial install so my bars never did slip, & one could say that this may or may not have made any diference , i say it DID..
Thanks, I will be tearing into it again tomorrow and I will check this out!
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.