Handlebar installation
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 203
From: SW Florida
If you can change the clutch cable you can install true duals. 
Here are some tips if you go that route.
1. Get two new flange gaskets while your at it. HD PN: 65324-83A
2. Make sure the pipes are aligned correctly where they connect to the head to avoid leaks.
3. If you go with V&H, do not use there muffler clamps.
Purchase new H-D Torca clamps: 65283-94 and torque to 45-60 FT. LBS.
Exhaust leaks can produce popping on deceleration.
4. A 1/2 inch stubby combination wrench will come in very handy on the rear lower head bolt and rear support bracket adjustment.
A 1/2" swivel socket will come in handy also.
5. Flange tightening process:
Tighten the top nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs.
Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs
Then the top to 100-120 in-lbs.
6. Before tightening the rear pipe install the left side cover and check the
clearance between the pipe and the cover.
7. This photo will help when it come time to install the rear pipe support bracket.
Once it's done, your going to love them.
Last edited by Bertk; Oct 24, 2008 at 11:14 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 203
From: SW Florida
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,698
Likes: 10
From: Longview, Washington
Did you get the bag and hose? Makes it real easy to bleed the brakes or change the old fluid. The service manual says to change DOT 4 every 2 years.
Last edited by sifularson; Oct 24, 2008 at 02:57 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,212
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Yeah, yeah, I know, but I really haven't spent too much over the years. I am adding some pullback handlebars now. I have added some chrome, upgraded speakers, bought a zumo, slip ons, Mustang seat, backrest, all the 100th anniversary goodies, and a V & H Fuel Pak. No motor work, so I haven't spent the real dollars yet. As of now, I have no plans to. Runs fine as it is.
If I already have the exhaust halfway off while putting in this new clutch cable, no sense in doing it again later. If I think I might want true duals, this would be a good time. I have been staring at the ebay page off and on most of the day. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, trying not to spend too much.
Decisions, decisions.
If I already have the exhaust halfway off while putting in this new clutch cable, no sense in doing it again later. If I think I might want true duals, this would be a good time. I have been staring at the ebay page off and on most of the day. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, trying not to spend too much.
Decisions, decisions.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 203
From: SW Florida
Before removing the old bleeder I hooked up the hose and bag and let the old fluid drain into the bag. Then pressed the brake handle or force more fluid out. With the new Speed Bleeders installed I cracked one open a 1/4 of a turn but enough pressure would not build up to open the check valve in the new bleeder. Unscrewing the new bleeder enough to let some air out and tightened the bleeder. Then starting the bleeding process again and that did the trick.
The rear did not have to be pre-drained because the bleeder is above the reservoir. I did note there was a good amount of moisture under the master cylinder cover and on the top side of the cover gasket.
I ended up using DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid, flushing out all the old fluid in the process. The Speed Bleeders worked as advertised.
The bikes a little over a year old and I'm going to repeat the brake fluid flush and bleed every year. The Speed Bleeders will make this very easy.
Last edited by Bertk; Oct 24, 2008 at 10:18 PM. Reason: Updated o-ring info
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,698
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From: Longview, Washington
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf4.aspx
BTW, I hope you meant synthetic and not silicone. My 04 sportster used DOT 5 silicone. My 07 Road Glide uses DOT 4 glycol based fluid.
Last edited by sifularson; Oct 24, 2008 at 10:54 PM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 203
From: SW Florida
Did you use Amsoil Dot 4?
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf4.aspx
BTW, I hope you meant synthetic and not silicone. My 04 sportster used DOT 5 silicone. My 07 Road Glide uses DOT 4 glycol based fluid.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf4.aspx
BTW, I hope you meant synthetic and not silicone. My 04 sportster used DOT 5 silicone. My 07 Road Glide uses DOT 4 glycol based fluid.
Minimum Dry Boiling Point 500F (260C).
Minimum Wet Boiling Point 311F (155C).
Meets or exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications.
Substantially reduces the possibility of fluid vaporization and eventual brake failure (as a result of vapor lock) by maintaining a high wet boiling point.
Recommended for all ABS, disc and drum brake systems as well as hydraulic clutches requiring DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids.
Compatible with all conventional brake fluids.
Complies with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 116, Meets SAE Spec, J1703.