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103" Stage II Hard Starting

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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 08:06 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by marcparnes
I tried the plug wires off test today and it in fact cranked right over. That tells me that the problem is most likely timing. I spoke with Laidlaw HD today and the fellow there was confident that they could tune the problem out. He also said that 205 psi was about right for cranking pressure. They have a very good reputation from what I've heard. He quoted me $460 for the tuner (I don't know which one other than it is HD approved) plus $260 for the tune. SoCal labor seems to be running about $95 per hour. That puts me at $720. Better but still expensive. I'll look on eBay and see what's available. Thanks for the tip.

Marc
I think you'll be glad you tuned it not only for the starting but to get the most TQ out of the 103. No sense putting that much money in it and leaving that power on the table. I looked on ebay and there are some on there. I'm just not sure if they changed anything on the 09's that would keep you from using one of the older SERT's. They seem to be about
$350 range. There's one on that says used. Don't think you want that one since it will only work on the bike it was "used" on
 
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 09:17 PM
  #52  
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Order yourself a brand new tuner from Zanotti's for about $350ish and then take it to your tuner guy and get this problem worked out. Still high but Zanotti's should save you at least a hundred on the tuner and you know it is brand new that way. Just my .02. Can't wait till my stage II is done in a couple weeks. I went with the SE 103 Stage 2 with pro tuner dyno time and a brand new D and D Fatcat and I am looking forward to a little more boost when the wife rides....yeee haw.

Phil
 

Last edited by dragonx; Jan 3, 2009 at 10:09 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 09:22 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by dragonx
Order yourself a brand new tuner from Zanotti's for about $350ish and then take it to your tunner guy and get this problem worked out. Still high but Zanotti's should save you at least a hundred on the tunner and you know it is brand new that way. Just my .02. Can't wait till my stage II is done in a couple weeks. I went with the SE 103 Stage 2 with pro tunner dyno time and a brand new D and D Fatcat and I am looking forward to a little more boost when the wife rides....yeee haw.

Phil
That's what I'm going to do. I was just looking on eBay and there are a couple of new ones for the same price as Zanotti and Chicago. Just going to bite the bullet and fix it. You're going to get a kick out of yours when its done. The difference is amazing!

Marc
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #54  
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I am curious, are they taking timing out at start up or adding it. I have a HQ103, but I opted for compression releses, knowing what I know from the EVO days. I know a guy that has a 95" high compression that has a PC3 and mentioned you didn't need comp releseses that it could be done through the PC3. When I asked what the tuner did, this guy could not answer my question. I do my own tuning, I do not have issues starting in the heat. Yet, I would like to get information to continue my own education on EFI HD.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 09:55 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by molsen
I am curious, are they taking timing out at start up or adding it.
The idea is to retard the initial timing assuming that the timing is currently too far advanced.

Marc
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:11 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by marcparnes
The idea is to retard the initial timing assuming that the timing is currently too far advanced.

Marc
I have an '08 103" stage II with SE255 cams and have the hard to start when hot problem as well. The dealer replaced the starter clutch under warranty and it helped for awhile but now is doing it again. I have the SERT and would like to solve this myself. Where do I change the start timing and by how much would you suggest?

I've looked through the tables in the map I have but don't know where to find start timing. I see front and rear spark advance but I have no idea where to change it for starting only.

Thanks,
Jim
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:13 AM
  #57  
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That makes a lot of sense, but I was not sure. Thanks. I have taken a lot out from the map I am using.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:15 AM
  #58  
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I'll be right back with the info, I have to fire up the laptop.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:27 AM
  #59  
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In the tuning mode, has to be in advance mode. Go under table selection and choose spark advancement for front and then rear cylinder. Once in that sub menu you would go and select 750 and 1000 rpm setting, and on the MAP side select from 15 to 50 and reduce it to around 12 to 15 until your issue is resolved. Me personally I have gone on 12 degrees til 40 MAP. I know it does not have a 0 map, but I remember Kevin from HQ mentioning there is always some kind of vacum while the engine is running. In comparison, I looked at a canned SERT map for 2:1 with 103 HtCC heads and pistons and timing is at 20 degrees for these values. Hope that helps
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:23 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by molsen
In the tuning mode, has to be in advance mode. Go under table selection and choose spark advancement for front and then rear cylinder. Once in that sub menu you would go and select 750 and 1000 rpm setting, and on the MAP side select from 15 to 50 and reduce it to around 12 to 15 until your issue is resolved. Me personally I have gone on 12 degrees til 40 MAP. I know it does not have a 0 map, but I remember Kevin from HQ mentioning there is always some kind of vacum while the engine is running. In comparison, I looked at a canned SERT map for 2:1 with 103 HtCC heads and pistons and timing is at 20 degrees for these values. Hope that helps
Thanks, I'll give it a try.

Jim
 
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