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removing ingnition "key" off FLHTC

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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 02:24 PM
  #11  
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gambler
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From: Tallahassee, FL
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This should help, particularly the fifth picture.

http://www.kenandjudy.us/Motorcycles...new_page_1.htm
 
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 04:34 PM
  #12  
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cfmii11
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From: Connecticut
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Dude, if your having trouble gettin' it just wait till you try to get it back in.
What a PITA.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 01:55 PM
  #13  
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iclick
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
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Originally Posted by FX4 Level II
This is really a PITA. For some reason I cannot get it off? Is there a better tool to use to depress the tab underneath than a small screwdriver? It's pissing me off!
I use my finger and it's off in about two seconds. Remember that you don't turn the ****, just the key CCW while pushing up on the tab. Hold the **** with your left hand with pinkie or ring finger touching the tab from underneath. Turn the key with the right hand while pushing up on the tab with your finger. You will hear a click and you can then pull the ****/shaft on out. Using a small screwdriver for the tab is slow torture, as you can't feel it and it's hard to find up under there.
 

Last edited by iclick; Feb 5, 2009 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:10 PM
  #14  
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iclick
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
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Originally Posted by steveh326

reinstall is not bad once you get the hang of it. Look carefully at the piece that comes off the bike... you will notice the nubs on one side are square-ish, the other side is dovetail shaped. For lack of a better word, this is like the 'key'. the 'lock' part, still attached to the bike, has to be lined up with the 'key' to work right. With the ignition switch removed, these 2 'locks' will rotate independent of each other, and must be lined up so it goes back together properly. Search your toolbox to find the right sized flat screwdriver that will allow you to rotate the bottom 'locks' independent of the top one... shining a flashlight down in the hole, make sure that both dovetail 'locks' are lined up at the 2:00 position. Then with the ignition lock pointing toward the "Lock" position, it should slide right in place. IIRC the bottom 'lock' piece down in the hole controls to the fork lock if you accidentally lock the forks over and need to move them, you can move this one and the forks will release.
I must be missing something, because reinstalling the **** does not require all this rigmarole unless you move the tumblers while the ****/shaft is out, which shouldn't happen. If you pull the **** out, do your work leaving the tumblers alone (and you'd have to make a concerted effort to move them), then put the **** back in with the same orientation.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, if you want to change the orientation of the switch while the **** is out, replace the odd-shaped nut and washers that go under the **** first exactly like they were removed. If not and you turn the **** the tubblers will get out of whack. Ask me how I know this. Unless you do that the tumblers should not need realignment with a screwdriver.

Removing and installing the **** and the nuts/washers is a straightforward and quick job if done right with no need to realign the switch mechanism. I've done it probably 15 times on my present bike with only that one problem mentioned above.
 

Last edited by iclick; Feb 5, 2009 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:29 PM
  #15  
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FX4 Level II
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I got it off with ease after I figured it out. I was turning the entire **** instead of just the key! Really pissed me off cause it took a half a second once I figured that out! Reinstalling it didn't take me long at all, I didn't run into any problems, that took about a second to do. My problem was I reinstalled the fairing cap screws and stripped out one side!
 
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