Did the heim joint shift linkage mod today...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
It just cracks me up that guys will spend spend spend $$$ for all sorts of Bling and Chromed goodies but will then bit'ch about those who spring for a chromed or polished HD replacement shift rod assembly. It was the "first" piece of chrome I put on my bike with no regrets. Personally, I hope you can find two free HEIM joints layin' on the sidewalk and you do your job for free, it that's what blows your skirt up... I think I remember paying around $80 for mine, and yea, it's chromed! OUCH!
if you want to spend the money because you like the way it looks, then fine, spend it. if however, you are a cheap bastage like me that doesn't have to have every little shiny go faster piece known to man bolted on, then spending less than 20 bucks is an awesome thing.
but then again, what do i know? i still have the stock handgrips on mine
Nobody has criticized others for buying"bling" as far as I've seen. The thread was started to make others aware of the potential problem with the stock linkage, and the frugal fix for it. Buy all the bling you want. Nobody here gives a ratsass.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 886
Likes: 3
From: NC Mountains
I went ahead and put the Sealmaster CFF5 rod ends on today. Had to buy some 5/16-24 bolts and cut them to the desired length. Used Loctite(blue stick style and primer) to secure the fasteners and used the stock shift rod. I work for a bearing distributor so I got the rod ends for about $4 each and the bolts cost about $1.50 for the packages. Took it out for a test and there is a much better feel to the linkage now...more solid than it was with the "lawn mower" style rod ends that came on the bike(which looked pretty bad after 6800 miles). I think everyone should do this simple upgrade whether you want the $100+ blingy style or just the industrial style like I used.
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 3
From: Open Road, USA
Sounds like something I need to do, I checked the DYI section and don't find any threads on this. Does anyone have a set of instructions. I know it sounds like a simple thing to do, but would like to have it written down, so I don't screw it up...
Joe
Joe
Step 1 - take linkage off
Step 2 - take off crappy connectors
Step 3 - put on heim joints
Step 4 - reinstall linkage
It's the four step program, as opposed to a two-step
Step 2 - take off crappy connectors
Step 3 - put on heim joints
Step 4 - reinstall linkage
It's the four step program, as opposed to a two-step
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 391
From: Fellows. WI
Did mine today. Got the heim joints from McMaster-Carr (p/n 59915K483, same ones as others have used), picked up two chromed 5/16-24 x 1" button screws, and one chrome 5/16 x 1/8" spacer.
I reused the original lock washer and nut from the front lever attachment point. I did add blue loctite to both screws.
I left the original jam nuts on the shifter rod and installed the new heim joints on as far as they'd go. Doing this lengthened the total shifter rod length by less than 1/4", basically it raised the heel part of the shifter up a bit and dropped the toe end down.
I don't have a good set of dies here; I plan on adding more thread to both ends of the rod at a later date. This will give me a bit more adjustment, if necessary.
I used the 1/8" spacer on the rear button screw between the heim joint and shifter arm as it moves the shifter rod out just a bit and lessens the angle of the rod. Also, the threaded end of the new button screw, when tight, is flush with the inside edge of the trans lever, just like stock.
Swap took all of a half hour. I spent $35.81 on everything ($28.99 for the heim joints, shipped, $6.82 for the hardware); it would have been somewhat less if I hadn't got the chrome stuff.
I reused the original lock washer and nut from the front lever attachment point. I did add blue loctite to both screws.
I left the original jam nuts on the shifter rod and installed the new heim joints on as far as they'd go. Doing this lengthened the total shifter rod length by less than 1/4", basically it raised the heel part of the shifter up a bit and dropped the toe end down.
I don't have a good set of dies here; I plan on adding more thread to both ends of the rod at a later date. This will give me a bit more adjustment, if necessary.
I used the 1/8" spacer on the rear button screw between the heim joint and shifter arm as it moves the shifter rod out just a bit and lessens the angle of the rod. Also, the threaded end of the new button screw, when tight, is flush with the inside edge of the trans lever, just like stock.
Swap took all of a half hour. I spent $35.81 on everything ($28.99 for the heim joints, shipped, $6.82 for the hardware); it would have been somewhat less if I hadn't got the chrome stuff.
Last edited by orbit; Feb 22, 2009 at 02:04 PM.