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Note that they don't mention the waterproof ones in this article that I saw and that is the key as far as I'm concerned.
I added read lights to my bike and the way that HD did them didn't sit well with me (the connectors weren't waterproof but exposed) and so I used the wp posilocks and have never had a bit of trouble... plus you can take them apart and put them back together in case you want to 'dewire' what you have installed temporarily or permanently.
There are new butt splices that have solder inside of a heat shrink tube, I've never tried them but I've heard they work well.
For a "T" tap I've used liquid tape after soldering too.
I used to be a snob about soldering. But the more I think about the more I agree that it is to rigid and can crack. I think the issue would be when using them inline. Maybe side by side not an issue
I do like the idea of connectors with the solder inside The connector will keep the solder from moving. I chose not to use them here, because tough twisting 12 ga where i was at.
I used to be a snob about soldering. But the more I think about the more I agree that it is to rigid and can crack. I think the issue would be when using them inline. Maybe side by side not an issue
I do like the idea of connectors with the solder inside The connector will keep the solder from moving. I chose not to use them here, because tough twisting 12 ga where i was at.
Never looked at my volt meter so much.
If they are in plastic it is touchy to melt the solder and not the plastic. You can get them in all metal and then use shrinkwrap.
I'm thinking about adding some extensions onto some LED's that I have, and I'm wondering if there are any new products out there that offer a nice clean splice when adding another set of LED's onto existing lines. I did a "search" and didn't really see anything applicable. Any help would be appreciated.
hey, im an electrical engineer with extensive experience in the maritime industry. you want the best connection on earth? get some uninsulated butt splices, just like the blue or yellow or red ones without the casing. or if you have some just cut the casing off so you have the bare barrel. strip your wire, leave the insulation about an 1/8" shy of the barrel splice. slide some heat shrink over the wire. if you want to get real crazy search out marine
, when heated it has a silicone sealant inside, it will ooze out a bit, this is how it is designed, you can flatten it out with your finger while it is still warm, you wont get a better water proof seal. coast guard requires it on most field splices. crimp the wires into the barrel. then heat the barrel and solder the two wires. make sure the heat shrink is far enough away or it will shrink and surely **** you off. we take a strip of towel or rag, we it and wrap around the wire just before where the heat shrink is at, you will be happy you did. let that splice cool fully, we slide the wet rag down on it for a bit. then shrink the heat shirnk. dont rush or skip this step or the heat shrink will close up like a worm you just cut in half and you will have to take it apart and start over.
once done you will have the best connection with the best protection on the planet.
i do all splices on the bike and cars in just this fashion. it will never fail.
good luck
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