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Have you read this thread? Have you read up on topic?
I used to think solderong was tjhe way to go, just cause a snob appeal. More read about it, it is rigid and can brittle. I suspect if wires were side by side, like a wire nut would be ok. Not inline.
Late to this discussion and new to the forum. Have a background (aeronautical engineering) with electronics and wiring in high vibration and nasty environments.
For stationary objects in a low vibration setting say a radio on a table, soldering is fine. I can solder with the best of them. For other applications like any moving vehicle, soldering requires very specific treatment to isolate the soldered joint from things like vibration, tension, torsion (twist) and bending. Heat shrink provides little of that, so if you're soldering, heat shrinking and thinking that's it, you may have a potential failure point in the future. Additionally, there are a lot of misconceptions about weather protection. Not all if not most connections require no weather protection, depending on the environment in which the connection spends its life. Case in point is the battery leads are exposed to the elements. Lack of understanding of this can actually create corrosion problems in soldered joints with bad or poorly done heat shrink, especially with dissimilar metals.
Crimping gets a bad rap since most folks don't use the proper tools to do it. A decent ratcheting wire crimper is under $40 so if you don't have one, get one. Same goes for a wire stripper. They are not the same thing so if you're using the same tool for both...don't; you need new tools.
We've come a long way in the past few decades with regards to splicing products, as others on this thread have already pointed out.
I personally rarely solder things for a moving vehicle. Doesn't mean you can't. But, there are just too many other better products out there that provide a much easier and fault resistant splice.
Solder and heat shrink.Any crimp-on or inline plastic tap are horrible for motorcycles.
Solder can break from vibration...every motorcycle ever built used crimp connectors... if you use quality connectors, and a good crimping tool...they impossible to get them apart without breaking the wire...
If you use an el-cheapo parts store crimping kit...you will always have problems... inline plastic tap, or trailer connectors as many people call them... should not be used on anything...including trailer connections...lol
Haisstronica butt connectors are easy to use because of their recognizable design. Each connector size comes in its own color code, allowing us to get the correct one at a glance. This will enable us to work much quicker since we don’t have to identify each size manually when we pick out a connector.
I bought those newfangled heat shrink tubes with solder built in. Work good but you need to use flame instead fo a heat gun to get really focused heat to melt the solder. Like these.
34 years in aerospace, damn near everything is crimped. They key are the expensive tools used and the terminals. We don't use AutoZone crimpers and Chinese terminals. The tools and terminals are qualified to produce an acceptable crimp (not over / not under). I still use solder and shrink tube most of the time at home. Don't overheat the solder joint and wick solder up the wires, and use enough shrink tube to provide good strain relief and you'll be fine.
I'm thinking about adding some extensions onto some LED's that I have, and I'm wondering if there are any new products out there that offer a nice clean splice when adding another set of LED's onto existing lines. I did a "search" and didn't really see anything applicable. Any help would be appreciated.
I agree with another poster on here. Solder is the most reliable with shrink wrap. I was an electronic technician for several years. While crimp type connectors can save time, they can be become less dependable over time given the vibration, and heat in some cases. When done correctly, solder will hold up better over time. Take your time, make sure the solder melts into the wire to prevent cold solder joints.
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