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My 02 RK used to take 3 1/2 quarts of engine oil. After an SE Hybrid Cam Plate/ Oil pump mod its dam close to 4 1/2 qts. I'm checking oil cold, after a run-up, on the jiffy stand, level half way up the dip stick- cold- per the manual.
Do I have the only set up that takes over 4 quarts of motor oil? How could the new plate/ pump hold almost an extra quart? Same result with 2 oil changes. WTF?
Let me know what you find I am having "Issues" with the oil as well! I had always burned an excessive amount and always thought that a seal was bad. I took the thing apart and found crap loads of oil in the Throttle Body! I can see that there is an oil mark at the rear of the rear cylinder intake port. So that seal is getting replaced. What concerns me is all the oil BS that I have been dealing with since the cam plate upgrade?
My 02 Ultra before the hybric cam plate and hi flow oil pump took 4Liters of (insert brand type here) 20-50W oil including a new filter.
After the camplate change it still takes 4Liters of (insert brand type here)20-50 W oil.
Maybe I am missing something, but I dont know what ....
Rob
Let me know what you find I am having "Issues" with the oil as well! I had always burned an excessive amount and always thought that a seal was bad. I took the thing apart and found crap loads of oil in the Throttle Body! I can see that there is an oil mark at the rear of the rear cylinder intake port. So that seal is getting replaced. What concerns me is all the oil BS that I have been dealing with since the cam plate upgrade?
Kbore, if you have 1/2 qt. that's in there but not showing up in the pan it must be somewhere, and what comes to mind is that it is in the crankcase. There is a drain plug directly under the crankcase, and if you drain its contents you should see no more than about 6 oz. of oil. If you get more you may have a sumping problem because one or more of the o-rings you replaced with the cam plate (at the cam plate or oil pump) is pinched, missing, or otherwise causing a leak. If it is leaking on the scavenging side you will have an accumulation in the crankcase, and that isn't a good thing. If the flywheel hits the oil that's collecting it can cause overheating and loss of power. If it's leaking on the pressure side I would think you would get the leaking as well as see a loss of oil pressure. How does your OP look?
I've never experienced sumping but have read about it, so my limited knowledge is based on this alone. I would drain the crankcase and measure the contents, as that should tell you if you have sumping or not. When you re-install this plug take caution that it isn't cross-threaded, as it is threading into aluminum and you don't want to strip the threads going into the engine case!
THanks for the sumping info. I will do the 6 oz oil test from the crank case. I've had actually forgot, but I've read about sumping too, but I'm not sure what the purpose or function of the oil pan is (versus the crankcase sump).
Oil pan has a baffle, 2 plugs and a NTP plug. My oil pressure is 40 cold, 35 hot and 18- 20 at hot idle. At operating temp. my oil temp runs averages 220at the dip schtick.
tg,
My oil pressure before the mod: Synthetic 20W50
Stock, IDLE, Cold 35 PSI
Stock, 3K RPM Cold 45 PSI
Stock, IDLE, Warm 33
Stock, 3K RPM Warm 35
I aligned the pump with EVO tappet alignment studs, rotating the rear wheel while tightening. Basically followed the Service Manual including the sequence and torque.
I had posted in April that with the first oil fill after the mod (checked level twice) the pressure was a little low. After a short ride, the level went down, and I added 1/2 quart - pressure went up several PSI.
I did mine the same way and the only reason I am asking about alignment is because I had oil in my throttle body when I went in to change that seal..... I was told by others that the pins will not work, however I did it the same as you? I am going to realign for the sake of doing it. I love that I decided to do my cams
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