I'm starting to second guess myself. I'm running a PC-V with Auto Tune on my 2009 SG. After I installed a set of Woods cams I contemplated on going with a good dyno tune or add Auto Tune to my PC-V. I chose the addition of Auto Tune after doing quite a bit of research here. Probably the biggest reason was due to possible future mod's. Well, I'm not totally satisfied with the Auto Tune. It seems like my bike is not running consistently. At times it seems to be running fine, other times I seems to be running very rich, much so that it seems to be loaded up at times. Also I can't seem to rid it of a "just off idle" hesitation. I'm also experiencing a surging idle during cold starts (Although I hear the PC has nothing to do with the idle)

I don't know, I'm thinking of pulling the plug on the Auto Tune. And because there is a very competent tuner in my area, to just have the bike dyno'd and leave well enough alone.

Really, what are the advantages of the AT if you really don't plan on doing any future mods and your happy with the performance of what you have?

Thanks in advance, Rich

 

If done with motor changing and happy with, maybe stay.... said U have a A1 tuner, better than most of us...

 

Im sorry, I'm not sure what you meant.....

 

AT is only as good as the base map that has been loaded. There are plenty of people that are happy with AT and Dyno tune and will debate it which is better to no end.

If you are done with engine mods and have a great tuner then I would consider getting a dyno tune and be done.

 

leave the auto tune connected, and get the bike dyno tuned ( by someone who knows his stuff).. i think the auto tune helps out on the always changing air qualities... dyno tuning should get bike dialed in at all points of throttle position and different rpms too...

 

The auto tune will not do anything for your timing. You will need a tune.

 

The base map has utterly nothing to do with the fuel-metering of AT except that it acts as a basis from which it works, and having a dyno tune with AT installed will accomplish little or nothing unless you doubt the accuracy of the ignition-advance tables. As Jamie at Fuel Moto said in another thread, the ignition tables are not as important as AFR, are set properly in his base map, and can be tweaked by the rider if necessary for factors such as fuel quality.

Thus, if you dyno-tune the bike using only the base map, i.e. disengage AT during the process and then re-engage it after the fact, AT will trim just as it did before and provide the same result. If you use the WB O2 sensors and tweak the Target AFR's you might be able to realize some very minor gains in performance, although I'm told it would be negligible since the Target AFR's used by Fuel Moto are the ones he uses to dyno-tune, proven by years of tuning hundreds of bikes.

 

Ok, I guess I said it incorrectly. The AT is only as good as the A/F ratio set in the base map.

 

How do you know the bike is running rich at times? Do you see black smoke coming from the exhaust?

If you dyno-tune the bike from the base map--i.e., change only the base map values--and then re-attach AT the bike will run exactly as it did before. That is unless you've made changes to the ignition tables, in which case the effects would be slight. I've played with my ignition tables using detonation as a guide and I can't tell the difference in performance between that and a zeroed ignition table. I've settled on the ones provided by Fuel Moto and have even added some advance in the cruise range in the interest of cooling and mileage, but I've seen no improvement there either. My point is that AFR tuning is the key to performance, not ignition tables that is close to accurate already, and I doubt if that is your problem.

If you are unhappy with AT you could dyno-tune the bike with the PCV alone and sell the AT unit, which would surely be marketable. Make sure there isn't some problem with it first and double-check your setup, as there are ways to screw-up which I know from first-hand experience.

Are you seeing any values in your trim tables? If so, look at those and try to find any anomalies, like extreme positive or negative values in any of the cells. Report back what you find. If your trim tables are all zeroes it likely means AT is not working at all. If you want to send me your map, email it to me here and I'll take a look at it. Connect the PCV to your computer and click on "Get Map," then "Save Map File." Use a filename that you'll recognize and send it to me. I'm really curious why you're having trouble and wonder if something in the map might reveal the source.

If you haven't done so already I would call Jamie at FM and talk it out with him before abandoning AT and jumping into a dyno-tune.

None from a practical POV unless you like to tweak. I play around with AFR's to improve mileage, so it fits in with my mode of operation, but I believe most don't need it given a good base map to begin with.

I mentioned this in a couple of other threads and don't recall if you were watching those, but the off-idle hesitation may be fixable by putting 0's for 1000-1250 @ 5-10% TP in the Target AFR tables (both of them). I had this problem while on my trip to the Smokies and doing the above fixed the problem, later verified as a known issue. I didn't notice it at sea level where I live, but above 1000' elevation I did.

 

Get the bike tuned by a person who knows what they're doin'. It's really hard to beat a bike that has been tuned properly on the dyno.