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Changing out your clutch at 10K, did you notice some thing wrong with the way it was shifting or just wanted to put a higher performance set up in it?
I had it bumped up to a 103" and with just under 110 TQ, and the clutch started slipping. So rather than go with the heavier spring, I went with the performance clutch and kept the stock spring. I knew I could always go with the heavier spring if I needed it.
When I took the stock clutch out, it looked fine. One thing I never checked before replacing it was the clutch basket adjustment. I probably should have backed off the cable adjustment also, because when I test rode the bike with the new clutch it started slipping a little also. I backed off the cable adjuster and it stopped slipping. With the new build, it's like a new bike.
Bert, I'd like to know your impressions once you get the spring installed--specifically the added lever pressure required. I have a stock TC96 with SE255 cams and have noticed that one other person with this configuration has had trouble with clutch slippage, although I have not...yet. If I ever have to replace it, I'd like to know about the side effects, like a stiffer clutch lever.
Hey iclick,
When I picked up my bike after the build, there was another bike there with the heavy spring. The lever pressure was noticeably stiffer, and I wanted to avoid that, so opted for the performance clutch and the stock spring, knowing that I could always replace the spring later. One thing I did notice with the performance clutch (or it may be the added hp/tq) is that the cable adjustment needs more slack. With the mostly stock 96" I used to leave 1/16" slack. Now I find at least 1/8" slack works better. There seems to be a lot less forgiveness with the added power. You may want to let the person with the clutch slippage, to increase the slack and check the clutch basket adjustment.
I'd also like to clarify whether or not the spring will fit inside the Derby hole. Hey Skydoc, exactly what do you mean by "finesse"? That sounds a little like "shoehorn" or "convince" (like using hammers and pry bars).
Bert, I'd like to know your impressions once you get the spring installed--specifically the added lever pressure required. I have a stock TC96 with SE255 cams and have noticed that one other person with this configuration has had trouble with clutch slippage, although I have not...yet. If I ever have to replace it, I'd like to know about the side effects, like a stiffer clutch lever.
I'd also like to clarify whether or not the spring will fit inside the Derby hole. Hey Skydoc, exactly what do you mean by "finesse"? That sounds a little like "shoehorn" or "convince" (like using hammers and pry bars).
iclick - On the advice of my tuner, I installed a SE spring on my '07 after adding the pipe, AC, and a good tune. The bike was making 78/94 at that time. I didn't detect any clutch slippage, but his advice was more on the cautionary side of keeping the plates in good shape down the road. He told me he recommended the SE spring with every stage 1 upgrade on the TC96 bikes. On my '07, the lever pull increased noticeably, as did the clutch "grab". I could break the tire loose with a hard 1 to 2 shift.
I also helped Donnylee on this forum install the SE spring in his '08 after he had a tune done with his 211 cams. He was making a little over 100tq at that time. The change in lever pull on his '08 was not as noticeable as it was on my '07.
Skydoc - Unless you want to give us a detail of your finesse technique, I'm not buying you can install the SE spring into an '07 and later touring bike without taking the primary cover off. I've done a couple of them and just don't see how it can be done. Are you sure your not talking about installing a VPC? Those I can install through the derby cover.
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