Well I took it off the bike and it feels like it is hitting something inside the locking Mech. and I don,t think it can be fixed, except the way of a new one. Has anyone replaced one before and how much did the dealer charge for it. Also if I did replace can they set up the new one with my keys or will I have another key for my bike.

 

It's an ACE tubular cam lock and it's not likely the locking shaft that needs lubed, it's the core that needs lubed. Use a small amount of graphite in the cylinders and then insert the key in and out several times till the grpahite is worked into the pins, then try and turn the key right. Be carefull not to pack in the graphite...just a small puff then work the key in the lock to get the pins lubricated then it should turn.

Don't ask me how I know...(<---locksmith)

 

So if you removed the entire lock with the locking bar that drops down into the neck, does the key cylinder turn freely after having removed it from the bike?

 

I can get the key to move from locked to unlocked positions when the switch is removed from the bike but it still felt labored on the movement, and that was even when I put white lithoum Grease in the locking Mech. and when I re-install the switch the movement locks up and I really have to force it from the locked to unlocked position.

 

Well thanks for all the help, I think I got it working ok. I had to clean it again and it seemed that barrel where the key goes in was jamed in, so I slapped it on the work bench to seat it to the top again and worked the key in and out locked after I put some grease and it seemed to get better, so I must of got the grease in the right place. I put back on the bike and it was even locking with out any effort.

 

In this thread I see:

-white graphite grease

- graphite powder lubricant

-WD40

-PB Blaster

-white lithium grease

so what specifically is the proper lubricant to put in a 2007+ lock tumbler? (touring)

 

Graphite Powder. I'm stickin' with the dawg.
I also see an amazing 6 1/2 year time warp.
You been waiting that long to post?

 

The Poo Bah makes an excellent point. That said, I'll bite. For normal use, graphite powder works best. I've used light Teflon oil on occasion. DO NOT use WD-40 for any lubrication! (My opinion, of course) It's great for water displacement, such as in the old points ignition distributors, and folks use it to get rid of adhesives and make their engines look good. What I've found is that if you use WD-40, it's a **** poor lubricant, and it coats the surfaces of whatever it is your trying to lube such that a REAL lubricant won't adhere. Just my word of warning, but others will obviously disagree.